The Significance of Calcium

Many of the biological processes of the gecko, including the development of bones and the contraction of muscles, depend on the vital mineral calcium. Because they are unable to generate enough vitamin D3 on their own for calcium absorption, leopard geckos, like all reptiles, need higher amounts of calcium in their diet than mammals. Leopard geckos who do not receive enough calcium from their diets rapidly develop metabolic bone disease, a dangerous condition brought on by mineral deficiencies that can result in weak and deformed bones, paralysis, and even death if treatment is not received. For developing juvenile geckos to have healthy bone growth and for their bones to remain intact throughout adulthood and old age, it is essential to provide a diet rich in calcium.

Calcium Deficiency Symptoms

Leopard geckos exhibiting symptoms of calcium deficiency-related metabolic bone disease need to be given better nutrition and early veterinary care. Weakened bones and muscles, trouble walking or moving, a limp tail or limbs, lumps or edema along the spine or limbs, and convulsions are among the symptoms. The illness results in deformities, total paralysis, and death if treatment is delayed. Reversing advanced metabolic bone disease is a considerably riskier and less successful course of action than prevention with appropriate dietary calcium.

Top Sources of Calcium

Supplemental calcium and feeder insects high in calcium are the greatest calcium sources for leopard geckos. Before being fed outside, feeder insects such as dubia roaches, mealworms, crickets, and waxworms can have their guts stuffed with calcium-rich diets and nutritional powders. The calcium and nutrients inside the feeder bug are absorbed by the gecko as it breaks it down. Oranges, sweet potatoes, collard greens, and commercial gut loading formulae are common feeder insect stomach loading diets. Adding a small amount of pure calcium supplement to feeder insects right before feeding them to geckos also increases their consumption of calcium.

Calcium Supplement Guidelines and Powder

Leopard geckos have high calcium requirements, which can only be satisfied by pure calcium supplements in addition to feeder insects, especially during their early growth stages. The best supplement is calcium carbonate, which is given in the form of a powder that the gecko can eat by sticking it on feeder insects. For growing juveniles under one year old, calcium should be given every one to two feedings. For mature and elderly geckos, the frequency might decrease to two or three times each week. It is sufficient to lightly dust feeders so that the powder is visible but not overly packed on. The gecko shouldn’t have trouble swallowing or coughing while it is eating because of the calcium particles.

Extra Dietary Guidelines

Leopard geckos need calcium, but they also require a balanced diet that includes enough protein and fat, the right amount of phosphorus in relation to calcium, and the right amount of vitamin D3 for calcium absorption. It’s crucial to offer a range of gut-loaded feeder insects in addition to sporadic high-protein feeders like silkworms and hornworms. Nutritious meals of feeder insects also provide vital fatty acids for ailments of the skin and body. It’s also crucial to take a multivitamin supplement containing vitamin D3 1-2 times per week. A diet rich in calcium-rich feeder insects, together with vitamins and other necessary nutrients, will help maintain optimal bone health and stave against metabolic bone disease in leopard geckos.

In summary

For leopard geckos to maintain healthy overall bodies, strong bones, and proper neurological and muscular function, they must consume calcium in their diet. In the absence of appropriate calcium levels, geckos quickly suffer from a crippling metabolic bone disease that causes deformity and ultimately death. Leopard gecko owners can encourage excellent health and avoid expensive veterinary intervention by providing calcium-rich gut-loaded insects at every feeding, administering supplemental calcium supplements one to three times a week, and providing balanced other nutrients, such as vitamin D3. Leopard geckos are wonderful companion pets in captivity for 10–20 years, if they receive the greatest nutrition available. A lifetime relationship between a pet lizard and its owner is ensured by monitoring calcium intake and health. I sincerely hope you find this “Importance of Calcium in the Diet of Leopard Geckos” article helpful.

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Preventing Leopard Gecko Bites

The best way to deal with leopard gecko bites is to prevent them from happening in the first place. Here are some tips:

Hand Taming
Tame your leopard gecko by regular gentle handling so it becomes comfortable with you. Support its whole body when picking it up and do not grab at its tail. Taming reduces defensive biting incidents.

Approach Slowly
Move slowly when putting your hand in the enclosure to pick up your leopard gecko. Avoid making sudden movements that may startle it. Give it time to see and smell you first.

No Tail Grabbing
Never grab your leopard gecko by its tail when handling. This is painful and frightening for them and will often trigger biting. Always fully support the body with both hands.

Manage Shedding
Leopard geckos are more irritable when dealing with a bad shed. Try to avoid handling them when undergoing a significant shed. Wait until a couple days after they finish shedding to handle again.

Clean Enclosure
Keep the tank very clean and spotless to minimize stressful conditions. Thoroughly wash decor items and substrates during weekly deep cleaning to prevent build ups.

Reduce Handling After Feeding
Leopard geckos typically prefer not being handled for at least a day after being fed large meals. Their attention and energy is focused on digesting, so hold off handling.

Quarantine New Geckos
House any new geckos separately for a minimum of 90 days before introducing them to others you own. This prevents passing parasites or illness and reduces stress and aggression.

With these preventative care tips, most leopard geckos can enjoy years of docile behavior as pets. But even well-socialized geckos may bite on rare occasions, usually due to mistakes in handling.

Treating Leopard Gecko Bites

If your gecko does manage to bite you, here is how to provide proper first aid treatment at home:

Clean The Wound
Immediately wash the bite area with warm soapy water for a couple of minutes to flush out bacteria and disinfect. Avoid using harsh chemical cleansers.

Apply Antibiotic Ointment
After washing, dry the area gently and apply antibiotic cream to the bite to prevent infection. Topical antibiotics like Neosporin work very well.

Dress it
Cover the wound using fresh bandages, gauzes or plasters once disinfected and treated with antibiotic ointment. Keeping it covered prevents recontamination.

Apply Ice Packs
Gently pressing an ice pack wrapped in cloth against the wound reduces painful swelling and inflammation. Apply for 10-15 minutes 2-3 times daily as needed for pain relief.

Observe for Signs of Infection
Check the bite daily for any worsening redness, swelling, oozing pus, red streaks or increased warmth which indicates infection. Seek medical treatment promptly if it appears infected.

Take Oral Pain Medications
Standard over-the-counter pills like paracetamol or ibuprofen ease bite pain, swelling and soreness. Always follow dosage instructions.

Allow It to Heal
Keep the wound clean, dressed and medicated while aiming to leave it undisturbed as much as realistically possible to heal. Most minor bite wounds heal just fine in 7-10 days with proper first aid.

See Your Doctor If Severe
Consult a physician promptly if the bite site shows severe infection, you develop flu-like symptoms or the wound is extremely deep with persistent bleeding or fails to close. Severe bites risk deeper tissue damage or bacterial contagion requiring antibiotics.

Stress & Infection Risk Factors

Your individual risk of stressful bites causing leopard gecko-induced infection depends on several health factors, including:

– Diabetes hindering normal wound healing abilities

– Compromised immunity vulnerabilities

– Chronic illnesses dependent on medications that impair infection-fighting capabilities

– Advanced age involving greater general infectious vulnerabilities

– Poor circulation reducing blood flow to extremities which impairs recovery

– Obesity making infections more refractory and difficult to treat

Any pre-existing condition or health vulnerability makes bites more concerning. Seek medical attention after a bite if you have additional risk factors until healing progresses fine under self care.

When to Seek Veterinary Care for Biting

While basic first aid suffices for most human victims of leopard gecko bites, veterinary intervention is often required if biting incidents happen between cohabited geckos. Signs to take pets in for care include:

– Bleeding or lacerations requiring sutures

– Infection setting in necessitating antibiotic injections or oral medication dosing

– Missing pieces of tail, feet or flesh requiring wound treatment plus pain control

– Eye injuries or damage

Take bitten geckos into qualified exotics veterinarians if their welfare appears compromised until they stabilize. Separate fighting cagemates immediately once biting starts.

Prevention and vigilance are key to dealing with leopard gecko bites. Carefully handle them using proper technique, observe for signs of illness stress and aggression in pets, quarantine newcomers and faithfully clean cages. Immediately wash and dress any bites that occur, plus continue monitoring for infection daily thereafter. With proper care and handling methods, most leopard geckos remain the mild-tempered captivating creatures that make them the world’s most popular pet lizard. I hope this Dealing with Leopard Gecko Bites- Prevention and Treatment Measures article helps you.

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An ideal leopard gecko enclosure allows your pet to thrive in a stress-free environment. This article will teach you how to design a suitable leopard gecko habitat, including recommendations for tank size, substrate, heating and lighting, hides/decor, and other essential elements. Additionally, you’ll learn effective techniques for cleaning and disinfecting your gecko’s home to prevent disease.

Tank Size

Leopard geckos are terrestrial lizards that need adequate floor space. An adult should have a minimum tank size of 20 gallons long (30” x 12” x 12”). Juveniles can start in a 10-gallon tank. Always opt for the largest enclosure possible, as more room allows for a proper temperature gradient and more decor/hiding opportunities. Glass tanks with screen tops are best. Make sure the lid is escape-proof.

Substrate

Loose substrates like sand, calcium carbonate, or crushed walnut shells can cause impaction if ingested. Instead, use reptile carpet, paper towels, non-adhesive shelf liner, or slate tile. These options are easy to clean, non-toxic, and prevent bacteria growth. If you prefer a natural look, use sterile soil or coconut fiber substrates. Avoid cedar, pine, and corn cob beddings.

Heating & Lighting

Leopard geckos are cold-blooded, so they require supplemental heat to maintain their body temperature. Use an under tank heating mat on one side of the tank to create a warm spot of 88-92° F. This will allow your gecko to thermoregulate by moving between warm and cool areas. The cool end should be around 75-80°.

In addition to heat, leopard geckos need appropriate lighting. Provide UVB light on a 12 hour on/off cycle to mimic daylight. This allows them to produce Vitamin D3 for healthy bones. Avoid nocturnal red/blue bulbs.

Hides & Decor

Leopard geckos feel secure with an abundance of hiding spots. Provide a minimum of one warm and one cool humid hide, along with additional decor. Use hollow logs, cork bark, artificial foliage, etc. Keep the number of accessories reasonable to allow open space.

Cleaning & Disinfection

With proper husbandry, cleaning is fairly straightforward. Spot clean waste daily. Every 1-2 months, remove all accessories and substrate to clean and disinfect the tank and decor. Here are some effective disinfection tips:

– Use a 3% bleach solution for 10 minutes before rinsing thoroughly. Vinegar also works.
– Quaternary ammonium compounds make excellent reptile-safe disinfectants.
– Let all items dry completely before reassembling the habitat.
– Replace substrate completely every 4-6 months.
– Wash hides, dishes, etc. with soap and hot water monthly.

Avoid strong chemicals or fumes that could irritate your gecko’s lungs. Rinse all disinfectants thoroughly. Also replace any accessories that are too soiled. By following these steps, you’ll eliminate dangerous microbes without harming your pet.

Additional Care Tips

Proper nutrition, limited handling, and routine vet checkups will also keep your leopard gecko healthy for years to come. Feed them live insects along with powder supplements. Give them time to settle in before attempting to handle them. And be vigilant for signs of illness so you can seek veterinary care promptly.

If you notice decreased appetite, weight loss, abnormal feces/urates, skin issues, respiratory problems, or other changes, isolate the gecko and schedule a vet exam right away. Catching issues early makes treatment easier.

By constructing the ideal habitat and providing attentive care, your leopard gecko can thrive for their full lifespan of 15-20 years or more! Do ample research before bringing one home, and properly outfit their enclosure ahead of time. Meet their basic needs of heating/lighting, tank size, substrate, and hides. Stay on top of cleaning/disinfection to prevent infectious diseases. With the right environment and care, leopard geckos make delightful pets. I sincerely hope you find this “Leopard Gecko Habitats Effective Disinfection Techniques” article hlepful.

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Reasons for Tail Loss and Injuries

The tail of a leopard gecko is used for balance and fat storage. It can also drop its tail by a process known as autotomy when it feels threatened. When it comes to pet leopard geckos, there are a few typical causes of tail injury and loss:

– Aggression from cagemates: Keeping several leopard geckos in one enclosure frequently results in fighting and bullying, particularly between the males. During a fight, one gecko may bite another, wounding their tail.

– Improper treatment: The skin and bones of leopard geckos are sensitive. A gecko’s tail can be readily damaged by grasping, squeezing, or dropping it. It is advisable to supervise small children when handling these lizards.

– Entrapment injuries: When a gecko tries to flee by getting its body or tail stuck on décor or openings in enclosures, it may injure its tail in the process. Make sure the hides and habitat have the right gaps and smooth edges to keep geckos out.

– Medical conditions: Over time, several diseases, such as metabolic bone disease, can weaken a leopard gecko’s bones and muscles, increasing the likelihood that its tail will come off from even minor trauma.

– Unknown causes: Sometimes tails come off for no apparent reason. Clues could include covert health issues or unreported confrontations between cagemates.

Assisting a Gecko with Tail Loss

A leopard gecko experiences worry when its tail is lost. Infection might also occur from the open wound. Recovery requires the right kind of treatment. Here’s how to help a gecko with a tail injury:

To separate the gecko, place it in a hygienic, unadorned hospital tank with a substrate made of paper towels and a hide if it has recently sustained a tail injury. This keeps dirt out of the wound and stops other inmates from bullying it.

Apply antibiotic ointment: After using a saline solution to carefully clean the lesion, apply a thin layer of antibiotic ointment that contains painkillers. Continue every day until the stump closes completely.

Encourage healthy eating so the gecko can rebuild its strength. Give it daily supplements of high-calcium powder and its favourite feeder insects to help restore bone. Until the gecko adjusts to changes in balance, it could require assistance obtaining prey.

Give it time to heal: A gecko tail stump needs four to six weeks to regenerate new tissue and scales. During this time, keep a close eye on the gecko and take it to an exotic veterinarian if the wound becomes infected.

Long-Term Support Following Tail Loss

A missing tail will ultimately grow back, but the gecko might be altered irreversibly. To provide the highest quality of life following tail loss, owners can put the following preventative measures into place:

– Pay attention to your weight: tailless geckos have a harder time storing fat. To keep it at a healthy weight, weigh it once a month and modify the quantity you feed it. Give underweight geckos waxworms or the insectivore supplement NutriBal.

– Reevaluate housing: A tailless gecko that has become vulnerable may be frequently targeted by bullying cagemates. It might require a permanent solo setup for security, along with more hides and greenery.

– Help with handling: To support balance concerns, cup both hands around the body of a tailless gecko and scoop it up. Keep an eye on small children and avoid falls. Put in low-level hiding and ramps.

– Take care of any associated health issues: If a gecko loses a lot of tail hair, have an exotic veterinarian examine it to look for any underlying conditions such as infection, parasites, or metabolic bone disease. Observe all guidelines for therapy.

Preventing Leopard Geckos’ Tail Injuries

When it comes to leopard gecko tails, prevention really is key to treatment. Owners can take the following preventative measures:

Make intelligent tankmate selections: Once they reach adult size, combine females only, or a male-female pair. Gently introduce new geckos by switching out their enclosures. Keep a sharp eye out for hostility.

Make the environment secure: Make sure that no holes or sharp edges allow body parts to get caught in the décor. Make use of substrates that won’t irritate wounds, such as paper towels. Take away anything that geckos can fall off or climb on.

Maintain good husbandry by adhering to the recommended care instructions for nutrition, UVB illumination, heating, and tank cleaning. This maintains the robust bones and muscles of geckos, keeping them active and healthy.

Handle carefully: A gecko should always be supported from bottom and moved slowly. Don’t tug on stuck geckos or grab their tails. Keep an eye on the kids and impart good technique.

Examine frequently: Every week or so, look for any indications of disease, damage, or weight loss in each gecko. A baseline makes it easier to identify minute changes that call for a veterinarian visit.

Owners of leopard geckos can prevent dangerous tail damage and ensure their pets flourish even after an inevitable loss by providing them with careful care and injury avoidance techniques. Be vigilant for warning indications of problems and take prompt action in the event of any aggressiveness or trauma. A happy, healthy gecko depends on you for protection and attention. I sincerely hope you find this “Leopard Geckos Tail Injuries Causes and Remedies” article helpful.

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This article is tagged to be infromative to veterinarians too. The information is not a substitute for advice from your veterinarian.

Nutrition support in Leopard geckos is often required in the case of anorexia or inability to eat. It is often used as part of a medical treatment plan until such a time food consumption has returned to normal.

Introduction

Refusal to eat and weight loss are often seen in Leopard geckos due to ill health and other medical conditions. Correct nutrition during, and after, diagnostics and treatment can significantly shorten recovery times and even be life-saving. It will help to gain the weight that was lost, allow growth and to maintain hydration. Nutritional support is often instigated by the attending veterinarian, but can continue long after the patient has been discharged. Although nutritional support should only be instigated in hydrated patients, hydration requirements will often be met by feeding.

Important nutritional factors for Leopard geckos include the timing and duration, type of nutrition, energy composition (calories), feeding volume and frequency and method of administration (feeding methods).

Timing and duration

Nutritional support in Leopard geckos are indicated during times where there has been or will be, prolonged periods of starvation. It becomes life-saving in cases where there is weight loss. Depending on the reason for starvation, the duration of nutritional support might be anything from temporary (i.e. days in the case of clinical helminth/worm infestations) to life long (e.g. force-feeding of poor eating Cryptosporidium infected Leopard geckos). Stomach and assist feeding (see later) might have to be continued after discharge. Nutritional support is usually ceased when the patient starts to eat voluntarily.

In a clinical situation where there the patient is severely emaciated and dehydrated, hydration needs to be corrected before feeding is started.

Type of nutrition

Leopard geckos are considered insectivorous, but carnivorous diets can also be used. Some authors prefer to start enteral feeding severely emaciated patients with electrolyte solutions such as half-strength Pedialyte (74 kcal/200ml) or Gatorade (80 kcal/350ml)⁽³⁸⁾. This is done for several days⁽³⁸⁾, given at 20 – 30 ml/kg/per day⁽²³⁾. These solutions can also be used to dilute food. After enteral feeding, Leopard geckos can be fed blenderized insects (e.g. as fed ‘gut-loaded’ crickets[1 375 kcal/kg ]⁽⁸⁾), or Emeraid Intensive Care Carnivore (5.14 kcal/g dry weight), Clinicare Feline (1 kcal/ml) or Carnivore Care (24 kcal/Tbsp).^(23)(38) With limited resources, Hill’s Prescription Diet a/d (183 kcal/156 g can) at a 50% dilution was used with success (author’s experience).

Energy composition (calories)

The energy required for maintenance (aka “standard metabolic rate” or SMR) in reptiles is calculated as 10 x (BW[kg])^0.75) per day. For example, a 50 g Leopard gecko has a SMR of 1 kcal/day. The SMR also needs to be adapted for additional energy requirements (illness, growth, etc.). This is done by multiplying the SMR by an estimated illness factor of between 0.2 and 4.0⁽³⁸⁾. The starting point for total energy requirements (TER) will be at 20 – 25% (see below).

Feeding volume

When it comes to the volume of nutrition, guidelines include ~15 – 30 ml/kg/day (1.5 – 3% BW). It is preferable that the total energy requirements (see TER above) is appropriately diluted, initially using electrolytes and later water, to meet the volume criteria. The daily volumes are best divided into several small meals spaced evenly over 24 hours⁽³⁸⁾. The starting point for volume will be at

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Introduction to feeding Dubia roaches to Leopard geckos

As with most other nutritionally balanced insects, Dubias contains most of the main ingredients, namely proteins, carbohydrates, fats, minerals, vitamins and water. The fact that Dubias are practical and easy to breed, manageable and non-odorous makes them increasingly popular feeder insects.

Adult Dubia roaches. Image from DragonRancher.com

Female Dubias have no wings where the males do, but rarely flies. They are slow-moving and do not like to climb vertical surfaces. When compared with crickets, they are not noisy.

Dubia roach adults are blackish with brown markings and the growing nymphs are brownish with spots. All stages appear white soon after moulting. Unlike most other cockroaches and crickets, Dubia roaches are known to have a non-odorous smell.

Dubia roaches are well balanced and are great to feed to Leopard geckos. With their relatively soft bodies, they are easy to chew and digest.

Sizes range from nymphs which are about 3 mm / 1/8 ” in length to adults growing to about 3.8 cm / 1 ½ “. This size range is ideal to feed to juvenile and adult Leopard geckos.

Feeder Dubia roaches range from 3 mm / 1/8 ” in length to about 3.8 cm / 1 ½ “. Image from DubiaRoachDepot.com

Feeder Dubias should be gut-loaded twenty-four to forty-eight hours prior to being fed to Leopard geckos.

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Introduction to Leopard gecko breeding

Leopard geckos are known to be easy breeders. By housing an adult male and female Leopard gecko together, breeding will most likely take place.

Keep the housing enclosure simple

Although Leopard geckos are generally not ferocious during the breeding process, fewer obstacles will be beneficial. Unnecessary enclosure furniture can be obstructive and even cause injuries. A simpler setup will also be easier to maintain, less time-consuming to keep clean and make for better observation.

Also see
Good hygiene practises for Leopard geckos

Bigger enclosures are not always better

Many Leopard gecko breeders use smaller containers during the breeding season. Simple stackable plastic containers (with enough ventilation) measuring between 40 and 60 cm / 15 to 25 ” are generally acceptable for two to four Leopard geckos. Also see the Leopard gecko housing guidelines for more information.

Use only one male

When it is time to breed, male Leopard geckos become very possessive and even aggressive. More than one male during this time will lead to more fighting and less breeding. When space allows, a single male can be paired with two to four females.

Males can be rotated between multiple females

After an evening or two together, a single male Leopard gecko can be rotated with multiple groups of females, but make sure to allow two to three days of rest after about seven days of breeding. This way males can be used more efficiently, but make sure to keep track to prevent inbreeding.

Use breeding boxes

A breeding box, or advanced hide box, with a small opening and a moist substrate, will provide hiding and a place for females to deposit their eggs in. Popular hiding box substrates to use for hiding boxes and as an egg-laying substrate is peat moss and vermiculite. Also see suitable substrates for Leopard gecko for more information.

Prevent egg contamination

Breeding boxes should contain a clean, preferably commercial substrate such as packaged vermiculite, peat moss or a specialised reptile egg-laying substrate. This will prevent eggs from becoming contaminated with bacteria and parasites. Also see suitable substrates for Leopard geckos for more information.

Feed enough food

During breeding, male and female Leopard geckos will need more energy from their food. During this time, mealworms dusted with a commercial calcium/vitamin D combination and a multi-vitamin combination should be available all the time.

Female condition and sizes

Breeding females should preferably be full size and in good condition at the beginning of the breeding season. A good indicator of the condition is the fatness of the tails. The fatter the better.

Less attention is better

It is often beneficial to allow privacy during the breeding season. Opening of the enclosure and hide box should be reserved for daily inspection, cleaning and feeding only.

Get the incubator ready

Before you have it, there will be eggs. By this time you should have done your research on the incubator to use and have it set up to the desired temperature.

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Crickets are among the main foodstuffs for pet Leopard geckos and other insectivorous lizards. These insects contain most of their requirements, namely proteins, carbohydrates, fats, minerals, vitamins and water.

Introduction to feeding crickets to Leopard geckos

The average nutritional composition for a well-fed grey cricket is ca. 21% protein and 6% fat. Their practicality and ease of breeding put them in the top spots when it comes to feeder insects for Leopard geckos.

Cricket sizes

Different sized crickets are fed to different sized Leopard geckos. As a rule of thumb, the crickets should be no larger than the length of the space between the eyes of the Leopard gecko that is being fed.

Commercial crickets are sold as large, medium, small or pinhead sizes. Hatchling crickets, or so-called pinheads, are wingless and literally the size of the head of a standard pin. Pinheads are usually fed to hatchling⁽³²⁾/very small and baby Leopard geckos.

Small crickets are larger than pinheads, but still only a few millimetres long. Medium crickets are about 1 cm / 0.4 ” in length and depending on the species, adult crickets grow up to about 2 – 3 cm / 0.8 – 1.2 ” in length.

Selecting the correct crickets for Leopard geckos

There are various criteria used to select crickets for pet Leopard geckos. It is strongly recommended to only feed commercial crickets bought from reputable cricket breeders or pet shops. Apart from their size, other factors will include quality and price. A ‘fresh’, well-fed cricket will be more nutritious and probably also taste better.

How much crickets to feed

As a general rule of thumb, only the amount of crickets that can be consumed within ten to twenty minutes should be given per Leopard gecko. Depending on the size of the Leopard gecko, the size of the cricket and the frequency of feeding, this can be anything from one or two to about a dozen crickets per feeding. By removing free-roaming crickets after the meal, stress and possible physical nibbling injuries can be prevented.

Cricket species

The two main cricket species fed to Leopard geckos in South Africa are the European house cricket, also called the grey cricket (Acheta domestica) and the Common black cricket (Gryllus bimaculatus). Both these species are high in protein and energy. In comparison with most cockroaches, crickets are more proliferous and softer. They are also easy to dust and gut-load. When compared to grasshoppers and many other feeder insects, they are easier to breed, their legs are more reduced and the thorax is easier to digest, which, more importantly, makes them safe to feed.

Crickets should always be gut-loaded 24 to 48 hours prior to being fed to Bearded dragons. Because feeder crickets have an unfavourable Ca:P ratio (1:12) it is also recommended that they are dusted with an appropriate Leopard gecko calcium supplement two to three times a week.

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Leopard geckos will need to be handled from time to time. They often need to be picked up, shoved, moved from one enclosure to another and/or need to be gripped to be closely inspected. When considering the fragile nature of Leopard geckos and the potential to transmit diseases, handling should be done under responsible supervision and caution should be taken afterwards (see later).

When handling a Leopard gecko, its intentions should be anticipated and it should be observed closely at all times. Untamed Leopard geckos might attempt to escape while being handled. An uncomfortable Leopard gecko can at any time walk, dash or jump from your hands while being handled.

The correct way to handle a Leopard gecko

Adult and baby Leopard geckos are handled differently. Even more so than adults, baby Leopard geckos need to be handled with extra caution.

Handling adult Leopard geckos

Larger, adult Leopard geckos are to be handled with two hands. They can be picked-up by scooping one hand under the belly while supporting the rest of the body with the other hand. The Leopard gecko should be allowed to rest on the palm of your hand while your fingers are gently curled over its back. When sitting down, a tame Leopard gecko can be allowed to sit on the body of the handler.

Handling baby Leopard geckos

Baby Leopard geckos can be picked-up by using your hand to make a ‘cage’ around the body. Tame baby Leopard geckos can also be encouraged by a gentle shove to go and sit in your hand before ‘caging’ your fingers around the body. When handling a baby Leopard gecko, use slow, careful movements and restrict handling to a bare minimum.

Falling injuries

Falling injuries are commonly seen in pet Leopard geckos. Although falls from shorter distances sometimes go without injuries, a fall from a significant height (e.g. from a sitting lap or standing person) can lead to serious internal injuries. Holding and handling a Leopard gecko correctly can prevent unnecessary falls from happening.

Tail injuries

Leopard geckos are known to be able to lose their tails. This commonly happens due to falling injuries (see earlier) or incorrect handling. By grabbing a Leopard gecko by the tail, it can easily break off. Also see tail injuries in Leopard geckos for more information.

Hygiene practices while handling a Leopard gecko

Some diseases can be transmitted from Leopard geckos to humans. In-contact human hands can also be the carrier of certain diseases from an infected Leopard gecko to a healthy one. Irrespective the risk for transmitting diseases, Leopard gecko handlers are always advised to take responsible hygienic precautions.

F10 has a wide range of products including wipes, hand soaps, sprays and contact cleaners that is safe and effective to use with Leopard geckos. F10 products are available from certain veterinary clinics and hospitals.

As a summary, these are good hygiene principles for Leopard gecko owners:

• Do not touch your face while, or directly after, handling a Leopard gecko, the inside of their enclosure, feeder insects or their substrate.
• Protect any open sores or wounds you might have on your hands before touching or handling a Leopard gecko.
• Wash and disinfect your hands (or in-contact skin) directly after handling a Leopard gecko, the inside of their enclosure, their food or their substrate.
• Do not kiss a Leopard gecko or bring it close to your face.
• Do not eat while handling or even close in close proximity with Leopard geckos.
• Use safe, but proven disinfectants to wash, wipe or spray your hands.

For more information, also see our Leopard gecko owner hygiene article.

When not to handle a Leopard gecko

Although it is generally recommended to restrict the handling of Leopard geckos to only when it is absolutely necessary, there are cases where this is more important. Leopard geckos should rather not be handled in the following situations:

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Introduction

Water is the single most important medium for sustaining life⁽⁴⁷⁾. Studies have shown that the percentage of total body water (TBW) is higher in reptiles (up to 75%) than in mammalian species (60-70%)⁽⁴⁸⁾. TBW is distributed between intracellular fluid (ICF) and extracellular fluid (ECF) compartments. The ICF makes up 66% of total body water, while the ECF compartment makes up 33%. Water moves freely throughout most parts of the body⁽⁴⁸⁾.

Over the last couple of decades, there has been a lot of advanced made in our understanding of fluid treatment in Leopard geckos and other reptiles. As with humans and, for example, dogs and cats, many Leopard gecko lives have been saved by correcting dehydration under life-threatening situations. Although there are some ways Leopard geckos can attempt fluid treatment at home, specialised veterinary products, accessories and knowledge will often be required in these situations.

Leopard geckos can lose body fluids in cases such as trauma/bleeding (blood is also a fluid) or when they are not taking in enough fluids to sustain their body functions (aka dehydration). In most cases, dehydration is caused by chronic (long term) inability to sustain or replace fluids. Blood loss is more often acute (over a short period of time). Fluid treatment protocols will be different for acute and chronic fluid loss. Chronic blood loss can also be as a result of decreased red blood cell production.

Before fluid treatment is initiated, it is essential to identify the cause of fluid loss. Hydration and blood loss needs to be addressed before feeding is commenced⁽³⁸⁾ – even if it takes days. Normovolemia also needs to be established before other organ system abnormalities are addressed. Various treatment protocols will be more efficient in properly hydrated patients. Fluid treatment principles in Leopard geckos and other reptiles are similar to that of mammalian patients.

Also see
Nutritional support for Leopard geckos

Quick notes in shock treatment

Hypovolemic and septic shock, severe blood loss, and/or severe acid-base disturbances will require fluid resuscitation⁽⁴²⁾ (shock treatment). Note that, unlike in mammals, reptiles are able to maintain hemodynamic stability even in the case of substantial blood loss. This is because of a rapid shift of interstitial fluid into the vascular space⁽⁴²⁾.

In order to assess clinical signs better, admitted patients can be transferred to an enclosure/incubator with a temperature set to the middle range between 25 – 30 ºC / 77 – 86 ºF⁽²³⁾. Allow at least 30 minutes for the patient to be warmed up. During this time, the same incubator can be used to pre-warm the resuscitation fluids.

In a normothermic environment, clinical signs consistent with needing shock treatment include⁽⁴²⁾:

• Weakness
• Hypothermia (especially appendages)
• Prolonged capillary refill time
• Pale mucous membrane colour
• Tachycardia or bradycardia

For shock treatment, crystalloids in combination with colloids are recommended. Isotonic crystalloids (e.g. 0.9% physiologic saline, Plasma-Lyte A, Normosol-R and Lactated Ringers solution) can be given at a rate of 5 – 10 ml/kg followed by 3 – 5 ml/kg of a colloid solution (e.g. 10% HAES-steril). Each of them is given interosseus (see more below) as a slow bolus over 5 – 10 minutes⁽⁴²⁾.

Dehydration

Dehydration is the common term used when the body is depleted of fluids. When total fluid loss exceeds fluid intake, a fluid deficit – clinically recognized as dehydration – occurs. In most cases, dehydration is caused by chronic (long term) inability to sustain or replace fluids.

Common reasons for dehydration in Leopard geckos include diseases (through, for example, refusal to eat/drink, diarrhoea or regurgitation/bringing up food), physical conditions (making it difficult or impossible to eat/drink) and incorrect husbandry (e.g. where the temperature, humidity or supply of food and water is incorrect).

Exact hydration in Leopard geckos can be tricky to estimate (especially before it is quite advanced), but clinicians often classify dehydration as normal to mild (

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