Introduction to Leopard gecko mites

Mites are small arthropods belonging to the class Arachnida (the same class as spiders) and, together with ticks, to the subclass Acari. They are eight-legged organisms that inhabit the outside skin of many reptile species.

These tiny (only up to a few millimetres in length) parasites attach themselves to their host and bore through the skin. Most of them are haematophagous — meaning that they suck blood. Although having a symbiotic relationship with some reptile species, their presence can result in significant blood loss, loss of appetite a weakened immune system and various degrees of skin irritations.

Mites can also transmit diseases from one host to another and affect the overall health and appearance of reptiles.

Mite infestations in reptiles

With more than 250 different mite species that can infest reptiles, there are only a couple of ones that are worth mentioning. They are the snake mite (Ophionyssus natricis), the common lizard mite (Hirstiella trombidiformis) and the larvae of the trombiculid mite (also known as chiggers). Snake mites (the most common of them all) can infest lizards and lizard mites can infest snakes.

Snake mites, lizard mites and chiggers survive by sucking the blood of reptiles.

Although mites are commonly found in wild reptiles, they can cause severe problems in pet reptiles. Because of stress and the space limitations of reptile enclosures (when compared with the open spaces of the wilderness), mites tend to proliferate and concentrate more on pet reptiles.

Mite infestations are more commonly a problem in unhygienic enclosures, where poor husbandry is practised, with recent acquisitions and/or (wild-caught) imports.

Mites can also infest pet Leopard geckos. Apart from seeing the mites, signs of mite infestations in Leopard geckos include:

• damaged skin
• excessive soaking behaviour
• loss of appetite
• weight loss / poor body condition
• skin shedding problems (dysecdysis)
• the build-up of white dust at the bottom of the enclosure

Mite infestations are usually quite obvious. While still on the animal, they are often seen with the naked eye or better, under magnification. Depending on the gender and age, snake mites are either black or tan.

Lizard mites and chiggers are usually red to orange in colour. When present, non-attached mites can often be seen as little moving specs on the skin of Leopard geckos. Attached ones can be found around the eyelid folds, ear openings, axillae, cloacal area (the vent) and other skin folds. Drowned mites are also often seen in the affected animal’s water container.

Affected skin, often areas surrounding the joints, may result in hyperpigmentation (‘black’ dermatitis), hence the name ‘black skin disease’.

Excessive soaking behaviour, loss of appetite, poor body condition and skin shedding problems also warrants a proper, close-up inspection for mites.

Also see
Skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos
Leopard gecko soaking — warning signs

Origin of mites

Mites will breed and lay eggs in small cracks and crevices. Once they have established themselves, they will quickly spread to other enclosures and other animals. They also spread easily from one Leopard gecko to another.

Mites commonly enter an enclosure or collection attached on newly acquired reptiles that have not been quarantined properly. Facilities that are unhygienic and dirty and collections containing imported and/or wild-caught reptiles are more likely to be affected by mites.

The best way to prevent a mite infestation is by preventing it from entering a collection in the first place. This is done by purchasing healthy-looking Leopard geckos from reputable breeders with clean, mite-free facilities, avoiding wild-caught Leopard geckos and by quarantine.

Because mites might not be evident at first (especially in milder cases), all newly acquired Leopard geckos should be quarantined until they are mite-free for at least 6 weeks. To include the identification of other Leopard gecko diseases, the quarantine period should be at least 3 months.

Quarantine/isolation principles should also be applied for Leopard geckos that have been diagnosed with mite infestations (see Treatment of mite infestations in Leopard geckos below).

During the quarantine/isolation period, inspections should include close visualisation of the Leopard gecko’s skin, substrate and water container. The final quarantine inspection should preferably be done by a reptile-friendly veterinarian or herpetologist.

Also see
Leopard gecko quarantine: Why, how long?

Treatment of mites in Leopard geckos

To get rid of mites, affected Leopard geckos and their enclosures need to be treated. In severe infestations, the room where the Leopard geckos have been housed in and other reptile containers will also need to be treated for mites. Mites will often return when effective treatment was not done efficiently.

The first thing to do after mites have been spotted is to isolate the entire enclosure from the rest of a reptile collection. It should be assumed that everything inside the enclosure is infested with mites and/or contains mite eggs.

All affected Leopard geckos should be placed in separate, large enough, plastic containers with a paper-based substrate and as little enclosure furniture as possible. This will make it more difficult for mites to hide away and breed. The supply of food and mineral and vitamin supplements should continue as usual.

Mites can easily be identified in simple, minimalistic enclosures, e.g. during quarantine. It will be more difficult for mites to hide and breed in plastic containers and containers with paper substrates. Image Korean Gardener (CC BY YouTube)

Treating the environment

When they are not feeding, mites spend a lot of their time reproducing in away from their hosts — mainly in small, dark places like holes, cracks, crevices, under enclosure decoration/furniture and under the substrate.

Some mites can survive without a meal for up to 19 days before they will die from starvation. Even then, mite eggs can still hatch after adults have been eradicated. These factors make it very tricky to get rid of mite infestations.

After Leopard geckos have been removed, the entire enclosure and all its original furniture need to be cleaned out, treated for mites and properly disinfected. The enclosure should never be treated while there are still animals inside.

The original substrate should be removed and discarded in a plastic bag. Vacuuming, focussing on the corners and crevices, will help to remove mite eggs. The enclosure, enclosure furniture and equipment need to be cleaned to get rid of dirt. Normal soap and water can be used. The cleaning step might help drown some mites in the process.

After cleaning, all surfaces (including heat pads and lighting) need to be treated with an effective ascaricide (a group of chemical drugs that kills mites and ticks). Drenching will allow smaller cracks and crevices to be filled as well but fogging, sprays and powders are also often used.

Because most acaricides will only kill the adult stages of mites (and not the larvae and eggs), time needs to be given for eggs to hatch and larvae to turn into adults. For this reason, treatment needs to be done weekly for at least four (but up to six) consecutive weeks.

Effective ascaricides that can be used on contact surfaces include pyrethroids, pyrethrins, fipronil and carbamates. Products that are safe to use by humans and that are readily available include Frontline spray (fipronil) and F10 antiseptic spray with insecticide (synthetic pyrethrin).

After the treatment of mites (i.e. a couple of weeks down the line), the enclosure and enclosure furniture needs to be disinfected. Disinfection will not kill mites, but is more to kill potentially harmful organisms that may be spread around by the mites. By this time, all mites should be eradicated. To prevent any residing poison from affecting Leopard geckos, treated items should be properly washed, rinsed and ventilated before their return.

Other ways to kill mites in the environment include heat treatment (temperatures exceeding the 55 ºC / 131º F) and biocontrol. Early studies have shown that predatory mites (Stratiolaelaps scimitus – marketed as Hypoaspis miles and Stratiolaelaps eruditus) were effective in eradicating mite infestations and in various scenarios. Further investigation with this regard is still underway.

In severe cases, and/or where multiple reptiles are being housed in the same room, it is often indicated that the entire room gets treated. When this is the case, it is best to consult the services of pest control professionals.

Treating Leopard geckos with mites

Apart from treating the environment, mites that are still on the Leopard gecko also needs to be treated. Treatment should be done while a Leopard gecko is being isolated. Options include manual removal of mites, water baths, coating with oil, spraying, wiping, shampooing or dusting with ascaricides and the administration of antiparasitic medications (e.g. ivermectin). Debilitated Leopard geckos should be stabilised before treatment with ascaricides and antiparasitics are used.

The majority of treatment options include the use of chemotherapeutics (i.e. ascaricides, antiparasitic medication and antiseptics). Although they are considered necessary when dealing with a problematic condition such as mite infestations, their long term effects on reptiles (especially Leopard geckos) are not completely understood. Their use and safety should be considered on a per-patient basis.

Treatments such as water baths and manual removal of mites are relatively safe and can be attempted at home. When proven inefficient, individualised advice and treatment options can be obtained by consulting with a reptile-friendly veterinarian or herpetologist. They will also most likely be able to supply the correct treatment products.

Leopard geckos can be bathed/soaked once a day in chin-deep water for 30 minutes at a time. The water temperature needs to be similar to that of the enclosure (i.e. 25–30 ºC / 77–86 ºF, use a thermometer) and the soaking container must be deep enough to prevent escape. This will cause the mites to detach and drown. Care needs to be taken not to allow the head of the Leopard gecko to go below the level of the water.

Mites already on, or crawling to, the head of Leopard gecko can be manually removed by rinsing the head and neck and/or rubbing them with a cotton-tipped swab dipped in mineral oil. Some authors recommend adding povidone-iodine (e.g. Bethadine) to the bathwater to form a weak solution.

Bethadine will act as a topical antiseptic that will help to disinfect bite wounds. Bethadine or F10 Germicidal Barrier ointment can also be applied to open wounds with a cotton-tipped swab. If Bethadine has been added to the water, the Leopard gecko should be soaked afterwards in fresh water to rinse it off. Soaked/rinsed Leopard geckos should be dried before returned to their enclosures.

Although messy, mineral oil, olive oil or baby oil are popularly used to treat mites on Leopard geckos. Apart from being used with a cotton-tipped swop to remove mites manually, oils can also be applied as a coating.

Oil coating is a recommended way to treat small and delicate reptiles. Care must be taken not to get oil inside the Leopard gecko’s eyes. The oil layer needs to be washed off by bathing with a mild soap the next day and can be applied once a week.

Topical treatments in the form of spraying, wiping, shampooing and dusting Leopard geckos and other reptiles are also described.

Effective acaricides for this purpose include diluted concentrations of pyrethroids (e.g. 0.35% Resmethrin spray or shampoo and 10% Permethrin diluted to a 1% solution) and pyrethrins (e.g. 0.09% pyrethrin spray). Pyrethroids are safer to use than pyrethrins. Topical treatments might have to be repeated for 2 to 3 times allowing at least 10 days in between.

When using topical treatments caution must be taken during the skin shedding process. There seems to be an increased permeability of the skin during the growth and shedding phase. Snakes sprayed with anti-mite medications at this time appear much more susceptible to such toxins than those sprayed at other times.

Ivermectin (e.g. Ivomec) can also be used to kill attached mites on Leopard geckos. It is an antiparasitic medicine that can be given either per mouth or as an injection under the skin. It can also be used as an external contact spray or environmental spray by mixing it with water. Treatment should preferably be done under the guidance of a reptile-friendly veterinarian or herpetologist – which will also be able to help with the correct equipment, technique and obtaining the medicine. In addition to treating mites, ivermectin is also used to treat nematodes (roundworms) in some reptiles.

Treatment with ivermectin is done initially and then repeated after 2 weeks (0.2mg/kg). In order to prevent, or reduce the incidence of skin discolouration at the injection site, oral formulations should be used, or injections can be diluted with propylene glycol. Ivermectin is used extra-labelly in reptiles and side effects include lethargy, inappetence, nervous signs (occasionally) and death (rarely).

To create a contact or environmental spray, 5-10 mg injectable ivermectin is added to one litre of water. It can be sprayed directly on the skin or the inside of the enclosure at intervals of 4 to 5 days for up to 28 days.

Conclusion

Mite infestations in Leopard geckos are often seen in collections which came in contact with wild reptiles and unhygienic facilities. Mites can be eradicated, but it is tricky to do so.

The post Mite Infestations in Leopard Geckos – Prevention and Control appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

During shedding, their skin color turns dull, changing from white to grey before pieces begin to peel off. Many leopard geckos will eat their shed skin, a natural behavior that helps them retain nutrients.

In ideal conditions, the shedding process is smooth, often taking only an hour or two. However, abnormal shedding, or dysecdysis, can occur, especially in low-humidity environments. Recognizing the signs of healthy versus problematic shedding helps owners manage and prevent potential issues.

Causes of Abnormal Shedding in Leopard Geckos

Abnormal shedding in leopard geckos can stem from various factors, with environmental issues such as low humidity and incorrect temperature being among the most common. Other causes include skin infections, vitamin deficiencies (notably vitamin A), stress, and handling during shedding periods. Health problems like skin parasites or injuries can also interfere with proper shedding.

Identifying the root cause is essential, as dysecdysis often signals underlying husbandry issues. Maintaining accurate humidity and temperature in their enclosure is crucial, as both can directly influence the gecko’s shedding frequency and ease. Monitoring their habitat and nutritional intake can prevent most cases of abnormal shedding.

Recognizing Signs of Abnormal Shedding

Signs of abnormal shedding in leopard geckos include prolonged shedding (taking longer than a few hours), incomplete shedding where small skin pieces remain stuck, or unusually long intervals between sheds. When humidity levels are too low, geckos may struggle with dry, retained skin on various body parts, leading to discomfort and possible health complications.

This retained skin, especially on toes and tail tips, can cause restricted blood flow, ultimately leading to necrosis or even limb loss if not addressed promptly.

Leopard geckos with abnormal shedding may exhibit behavioral cues, such as spending more time soaking in their water dish. This soaking behavior is often a self-initiated attempt to loosen the retained skin, indicating that their habitat’s humidity may be insufficient.

Environmental Factors Affecting Skin Shedding

Humidity

Maintaining appropriate humidity levels is vital for a smooth shedding process. Low humidity is a common culprit for shedding issues, as a dry environment makes it difficult for old skin to loosen and peel off naturally.

Geckos in low-humidity settings may develop shedding problems, especially if they lack a moist shelter or humidity-controlled area. A humid hide box, filled with damp substrates like sphagnum moss, can provide an ideal microenvironment to support the shedding process.

Commercially available products like Zoo Med’s all-natural, sustainably sourced sphagnum moss can be used as a substrate in humid hides, ensuring a safe, dye-free environment for geckos.

Temperature

Leopard geckos thrive in warm temperatures, ideally ranging from 25–30°C (77–86°F) with a slight drop to room temperature at night. If temperatures are too low, geckos may experience stress, slowed growth, and even shedding difficulties. Conversely, overly high temperatures can dry out their environment, reducing humidity and forcing geckos to spend more time soaking. Maintaining a consistent, suitable temperature is essential for both their overall health and ease of shedding.

Temperature management can be monitored using reliable thermometers within the enclosure to ensure the gecko’s habitat meets their specific needs.

Nutritional and Health-Related Factors in Shedding

Malnourishment

Malnourished leopard geckos are more susceptible to shedding difficulties. A diet lacking in essential nutrients can extend shedding cycles and lead to irregular, problematic sheds. In extreme cases, geckos with protein deficiencies may lack the necessary enzymes to separate old and new skin layers effectively, making shedding more challenging.

Feeding a balanced diet and ensuring proper supplementation are crucial for maintaining healthy shedding cycles.

Vitamin A Deficiency (Hypovitaminosis A)

Vitamin A deficiency, or hypovitaminosis A, is a notable contributor to shedding issues. This deficiency not only complicates shedding but can also lead to various eye problems, such as conjunctivitis and periocular abscesses. Leopard geckos relying solely on non-gut-loaded crickets may lack adequate vitamin A, as crickets do not store this nutrient.

Supplementing their diet with gut-loaded insects or vitamin supplements is important, but care should be taken to avoid overdosing, which can lead to skin-related complications.

Complications of Dysecdysis in Leopard Geckos

When leopard geckos experience repeated abnormal shedding, it can lead to severe complications. Retained skin, particularly on toes, tails, or other extremities, can constrict blood flow, acting like a tourniquet. This constriction can cause tissue death, known as avascular necrosis, potentially leading to toe or limb loss if untreated.

In addition, retained skin can harbor bacteria and fungi, creating an environment ripe for secondary infections, especially around the eyes, mouth, and other sensitive areas.

Eye infections like keratitis and conjunctivitis are common complications when skin is retained near the eyes. Addressing these issues promptly can help prevent further health deterioration.

Treatment Options for Shedding Problems in Leopard Geckos

Treating shedding issues in leopard geckos involves three primary steps: removing retained skin, addressing the underlying cause, and managing any complications. Increasing the enclosure’s humidity or providing a moist hide can help prevent future problems. During the shedding process, daily misting and lukewarm baths may assist in loosening the skin.

If skin remains stuck around sensitive areas like toes or the tail, soaking the area in lukewarm water and gently removing it with damp cotton swabs can help.

For stuck skin around the eyes, additional treatments or medications might be necessary to prevent infections. In cases where shedding issues persist despite corrective measures, consulting a reptile veterinarian is advisable for further assessment and treatment.

Long-Term Management and Prevention of Shedding Issues

To prevent future shedding problems, maintaining an optimal habitat is essential. Monitoring temperature and humidity consistently, ensuring a balanced diet, and providing periodic nutritional supplements are all proactive steps.

Keeping records of shedding patterns and adjusting care as needed can help identify early signs of potential issues.

When dealing with potential vitamin deficiencies, gradual dietary changes and supplements should be administered to avoid overdosing. Regular health checkups with a reptile veterinarian can also help identify and address underlying issues before they escalate, ensuring your leopard gecko remains healthy and comfortable.

Conclusion

Abnormal shedding, or dysecdysis, in leopard geckos is commonly a result of environmental or dietary imbalances. By maintaining correct humidity levels, ensuring a balanced diet with appropriate supplements, and providing a stress-free environment, many shedding issues can be avoided. In persistent or severe cases, professional veterinary help is crucial to address any underlying health concerns.

With the right care and attention, leopard geckos can enjoy a smooth, regular shedding process, contributing to their overall well-being and longevity.

The post Dealing with Shedding Problems in Leopard Geckos appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Introduction to skin shedding in Leopard geckos

For reptiles, shedding the outer parts of their skins are normal⁽⁵⁴⁾. Initially, the skin will turn white to grey (dull⁽⁵⁷⁾) after which pieces will start to become loose and peel off. Having eyelids, the skin covering the eyes does not typically turn dull. The old skin often comes off as one complete piece, leaving a new, larger, and brighter layer of skin behind.

Shedding in reptiles functions as the replacement of old, worn skin and helps to get rid of external parasites (mites and ticks)⁽⁵⁴⁾. The skin shedding process is also called ecdysis⁽⁵⁴⁾, moulting⁽⁵⁴⁾ or sloughing and the sloughed skin can also be referred to as the slough⁽⁵⁴⁾.

Skin shedding is a physiological process where the old skin is removed to give way for a newer, usually larger one. It is controlled by the thyroid gland⁽⁵⁴⁾. Reptile skin consists of multiple layers and it is only the outer, dry part of the skin (called the superficial epidermis or cornified layer) that gets moulted.

Before the old layer is moulted, a new layer is already formed underneath. When its time to shed, fluid, lymph, red blood cells and enzymes are secreted that encourage separation of the outermost layer from the, still growing, inner layers⁽⁵⁴⁾.

Skin shedding in Leopard geckos

Unlike some other, shorter lizards⁽⁵⁴⁾, Leopard geckos will often shed their skin in one complete piece⁽⁵⁴⁾. Shedding can also happen in a couple of large pieces. The old skin breaks near the mouth and in many cases, the cast skin peels backwards over the body from head to tail. The active skin shedding process will take place over a short period of time (usually one to two hours in Leopard geckos⁽³²⁾).

Often, old skin is eaten by the Leopard gecko^(32)(59)(62) and shedding will take place at night — thus the process is easily missed⁽³⁰⁾.

An adult Leopard gecko in the process of shedding its skin, and eating it. In this case, the skin is actively peeled off by biting and pulling on the old skin using its mouth.

Frequency pf skin shedding and growth rate

Baby and juvenile Leopard geckos grow faster meaning they will shed their skins more frequently than adults — typically every 10⁽³²⁾ to 14 days. The growth rate will depend on factors such as the amount of food given, the environmental temperature, health status and the genes of the Leopard gecko.

Adult Leopard geckos will shed approximately every 4 to 8⁽³²⁾ weeks. Skin shedding is often an indication that a Leopard gecko is healthy and growing. Pet Leopard geckos tend to shed more often than wild Leopard geckos.

Other than the growth rate, the frequency of skin sloughing also depends on factors such as the season, hibernation (brumation), mating⁽⁵⁴⁾. The state of nutrition, reproductive status, parasite load, hormonal balance, infection with bacterial or other skin pathogens, ambient temperature, and humidity may also have an effect on the frequency of ecdysis⁽⁵⁵⁾.

Owners can keep records of the patterns, frequencies and durations of a Leopard gecko’s skin sheddings. Records will help to predict the frequency of sheddings and can be used to monitor for abnormalities.

Also see
What to look for in a healthy Leopard gecko
Correct humidity for pet Leopard geckos

While shedding, Leopard geckos will often change their behaviour. Normal behavioural changes before, during and after the shedding process include:

During shedding, Leopard geckos are often seen rubbing their face and body against the sides of the enclosure, enclosure furniture and the floor. Some will also be seen biting at their legs and at loose pieces of skin.

To what is believed to aid in the shedding process, Leopard geckos will often be seen eating their sheds^(32)(59).

During the shedding process, Leopard geckos will often rub against rough surfaces of the terrarium. This is to start the shedding process by creating ‘peeling areas’.

During the shedding process, Leopard geckos may spend more time in their humidifying shelters hiding away or moving to safe places. It is not uncommon for Leopard geckos to refuse to eat or eat less before and during the shedding process⁽⁵⁴⁾.

Anorexia (unwillingness to eat) might even start days before the old skin is to be shed⁽⁵⁴⁾. This is likely due to the sensitivity of the new/fresh skin and the restricting nature of the old skin — making it more difficult to move around.

Leopard geckos might also be seen soaking in their water dishes during the shedding process — especially when it is problematic. By keeping the old skin moist, it will separate more easily from the body.

Also see
Leopard gecko soaking — warning signs
Skin eating behaviour in Leopard geckos

Helping Leopard geckos during skin shedding

For pet Leopard geckos, skin shedding comes with a lot of potential problems and challenges. Skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos (dysecdysis) are frequently seen.

Major contributing factors include a too low environmental humidity⁽⁵⁴⁾, low temperatures, improper nutrition and insufficient enclosure furniture for rubbing⁽⁵⁵⁾. One of the most important things that will aid in normal skin shedding in Leopard geckos is the supply of a humidifying shelter (hide box containing a moist substrate).

A correctly set up hide box will most often be enough to supply all the required humidity and will also double as a place to hide during this fragile period. Popular hide box substrates include peat/sphagnum moss⁽³⁴⁾ and vermiculite⁽³⁰⁾ that is wetted with an equal amount of water. Sprayed paper towel can also be used. The substrate should not be soggy wet but feel moist by touching it.

Other than supplying a humidifying shelter, other quick ways to increase the environmental humidity is by increasing the size of the water bowl and by misting the enclosure. Some Leopard geckos might soak more frequently in their water containers during the skin shedding process.

Twice a day misting (i.e. spraying) with lukewarm water will aid in increasing the overall environmental humidity during this period. The temperature of the spraying water needs to be similar to that of the enclosure (i.e. 25–30 ºC / 77–86 ºF⁽²³⁾, use a thermometer).

It was observed medically by some authors that severely malnourished lizards appear to have very difficult and irregular sloughs⁽⁵⁵⁾.

Items such as logs, rocks and pieces of dry wood can be used to create areas for rubbing.

Also see
Skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos
Leopard gecko hide areas and hide boxes
Ensuring the correct humidity for pet Leopard geckos
Suitable substrates for Leopard geckos

Handling Leopard geckos during skin shedding

Fresh skin is still fragile and more sensitive than the old one. It is therefore encouraged to keep handling to an as-needed basis while a Leopard gecko is in the process of shedding. Handling should be restricted up to a couple of days after the shedding process has finished.

Also see
Handling a Leopard gecko

Conclusion

Owners often see their Leopard geckos shedding its skin. It is normal in reptiles. While a Leopard gecko is shedding its skin, certain behaviours can be expected and there are various things owners can do to ease the process.

The post Leopard Gecko Shedding Guide – Healthy Skin Care Tips appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Leopard Gecko Quarantine

Quarantine is a form of isolation aimed at preventing the spread of disease. In the context of Leopard geckos, this practice ensures that potentially infectious diseases do not transfer from one gecko to another or even to humans.

Many diseases may not immediately show symptoms, meaning a seemingly healthy Leopard gecko could still carry a contagious illness. Quarantine is essential for new geckos and for those suspected of illness.

The quarantine process is equally beneficial for sick or injured Leopard geckos. For example, if one gecko in an enclosure shows signs of disease, isolating it from the others can reduce or even prevent disease transmission.

Furthermore, isolation provides an ideal environment for treatment and monitoring without putting other geckos at risk. Even if the disease has already spread, further infection can often be contained through proper quarantine practices.

Commonly Quarantined Conditions and Duration

Leopard gecko quarantine typically lasts between three to six months to account for diseases that may take time to manifest. Some diseases can appear within weeks, while others require a longer incubation period.

For specific cases, such as mite infestations, a shorter quarantine period of six weeks may suffice. However, for more complex and contagious diseases like adenovirus infections or cryptosporidiosis, extended quarantines are necessary.

In cases of cryptosporidium or adenovirus, lifelong quarantine may be advisable since these diseases are highly transmissible.

When dealing with injuries, quarantine is also recommended. For example, if a Leopard gecko loses its tail, the recovery period usually lasts five to eight weeks, during which time the gecko should be kept separate from others to avoid additional stress or injury.

Infectious vs. Contagious Diseases in Leopard Geckos

Leopard geckos can contract various infectious diseases, some of which are also contagious. Infectious diseases result from organisms like bacteria, viruses, or protozoans entering the body. Not all infectious diseases are transmissible, but when they are, they are termed contagious.

An effective quarantine process can prevent the spread of contagious diseases within a gecko collection.

Cryptosporidiosis is one of the most concerning diseases among Leopard geckos, affecting both geckos and humans. It spreads through contact with infected feces and is highly contagious, making quarantine essential for geckos carrying this disease.

Another condition, adenovirus infection, though rare, is highly contagious and spreads through respiratory droplets or infected feces. Additionally, salmonellosis, commonly associated with reptiles, can be transferred to humans.

Even though conditions like mite infestations and helminths (worms) are not strictly infectious diseases, they can still spread from one gecko to another.

Recognizing Symptoms and Asymptomatic Carriers

Some diseases in Leopard geckos may show clear clinical symptoms, such as weight loss, refusal to eat (anorexia), or regurgitation. However, certain conditions are more insidious and might be subclinical, meaning they show no obvious signs but are still contagious.

Salmonella is an example of a disease that Leopard geckos may carry asymptomatically, yet it can be transmitted to humans without the gecko appearing ill.

Due to the risk of asymptomatic carriers, newly acquired Leopard geckos should always undergo a quarantine period. Diseases like adenovirus or cryptosporidium can spread from Leopard geckos that show no outward signs of illness, making the quarantine process an essential preventive measure.

How Long Should Leopard Geckos Be Quarantined?

The ideal quarantine duration depends on the incubation period of potential diseases. For Leopard geckos, the quarantine period generally spans one to six months. This timeframe allows for diseases with longer incubation periods to become apparent, reducing the risk of unknowingly introducing a contagious disease into an established gecko habitat.

For instance, adenovirus infections may require a quarantine period of up to three months to reveal symptoms.

For cases of external parasites like mites, a six-week quarantine period is typically sufficient. This period allows keepers to observe any signs of infestation and treat them accordingly. However, for diseases like cryptosporidium, which may not present symptoms for extended periods, a quarantine period of at least six months is recommended.

Some experienced breeders go as far as quarantining new geckos for a year to ensure complete health and safety.

The Quarantine Enclosure- Key Considerations

Setting up a dedicated quarantine enclosure is crucial. Each Leopard gecko should have its own isolated environment during quarantine, complete with essential housing needs but with a strong emphasis on hygiene.

Food and water bowls, hides, and other accessories should not be shared with other geckos and should be thoroughly disinfected between uses. To facilitate easy cleaning and prevent cross-contamination, simple substrates such as paper towels, brown butcher paper, or non-printed newspaper are recommended.

Plastic or glass enclosures are often preferred due to their ease of cleaning. These materials allow for regular disinfection, which is essential to a successful quarantine. The enclosure should be located in a separate room from other Leopard geckos, and items should not be moved in or out of this space without proper sanitization.

Importance of Regular Quarantine Inspections

Monitoring Leopard geckos during quarantine is essential to detect any signs of illness early. Quarantine inspections can involve visual checks by the keeper and veterinary exams if abnormalities are observed.

An experienced reptile-friendly veterinarian can help identify diseases that may be difficult to detect with the naked eye, providing peace of mind that the gecko is either disease-free or receiving appropriate treatment.

During quarantine, handling of Leopard geckos should be kept to a minimum to avoid stress and potential disease transmission. Disposable gloves are recommended to prevent zoonotic diseases, which are diseases that can transfer from animals to humans.

Best Practices for Hygiene During Quarantine

Maintaining good hygiene is critical during Leopard gecko quarantine to minimize disease transmission risk. Here are essential hygiene practices for Leopard gecko owners:

1. Avoid touching your face while handling Leopard geckos or their enclosure items.
2. Cover any open wounds on your hands before handling geckos.
3. Wash and disinfect your hands before and after handling geckos and their enclosures.
4. Avoid eating near Leopard geckos or their habitat.
5. Use disposable gloves when handling Leopard geckos or cleaning their enclosures.
6. Do not kiss Leopard geckos or bring them close to your face.

Proper handwashing techniques should also be observed. Use warm water if possible, create a lather with soap, and scrub all areas of the hands, including under the fingernails, for at least 20 seconds before rinsing and drying.

Diseases Transmissible from Leopard Geckos to Humans

Leopard geckos can carry diseases that may transfer to humans, including cryptosporidiosis, salmonella, and mites. Regular checks for signs of these diseases, as well as stool inspections to monitor for internal parasites like roundworms and pinworms, are vital.

Since cryptosporidiosis can be challenging to detect, repeated stool testing on consecutive samples may be required for accurate diagnosis.

Before releasing a Leopard gecko from quarantine, it should display no signs of illness, maintain a steady weight (or show appropriate growth if juvenile), and exhibit normal eating and defecation behaviors. Only when a gecko is parasite-free and healthy can it be reintegrated into the general habitat.

Final Thoughts on Leopard Gecko Quarantine

Quarantining new Leopard geckos is crucial for the health and safety of both reptiles and humans. A quarantine period between three to six months is generally recommended to observe for any potential signs of disease.

Geckos that show no symptoms during this period can likely be deemed healthy. For injured geckos, isolation aids recovery, while those with specific infectious diseases may require lifelong quarantine to prevent spreading pathogens.

In summary, following a well-structured quarantine protocol can help prevent the spread of serious diseases within Leopard gecko populations. By implementing thorough hygiene practices and monitoring your geckos carefully, you’ll ensure a healthier environment for your pets and yourself.

The post Leopard Gecko Quarantine – Why It Important and How Long? appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

The tail is the prolonged section extending past the attachment of the back legs. In Leopard geckos, the tail is partially flexible and its main purpose is to store fats and to aid in communication with other Leopard geckos. The innermost structure of the tail consists of vertebrae (called the caudal vertebrae) which is an extension of the spinal cord. The tails of Leopard geckos can also act as a protection mechanism by being expelled in the case of danger.

Leopard gecko tail injuries

The tails of Leopard geckos are can be injured in a couple of ways. Although tail injuries in Leopard geckos are not frequently seen and/or is not frequently a major problem, preventative and management measures could aid in minimising the risk for complications.

A Leopard gecko’s tail can be injured in one or more of the following ways:

Many tail injuries in Leopard geckos will result in the loss of the tail (see below). The entire tail, or only a part thereof, can break off. Fortunately, when this happens, the tails of Leopard geckos are designed to withstand serious complications such as infections, pain and severe blood loss. In many cases, the tail will grow back (see later).

Leopard gecko tail drop

Tail dropping in Leopard geckos (also known as autotomy) is when the tail is cast off in the case of danger (e.g. in the case of being chased/attacked by a predator). Autotomy is a natural protection mechanism for Leopard geckos. Although this probably happens more frequently as a result of a physical insult on the tail itself (e.g. the tail being grabbed or bitten), Leopard geckos can spontaneously drop their tails too.

A Leopard gecko’s tail has fracture points and muscles that connect the tail with the spine. Fracture points have weaker connections between them and will break more easily than the rest of the spine. This allows the tail to break more easily in certain areas with less trauma and consequences.

When in danger, the tail muscles will contract which cause enough pressure for the closest fracture point to separate – causing the tail to fall off at that point. After a Leopard gecko dropped its tail, the constriction of the muscles will restrict blood loss and fold over the exposed spinal area to serve as protection.

First aid for Leopard Geckos tail injuries

Although doing nothing will often yield similar results, there are a few things Leopard gecko owners can do in the case where the tail has been injured and/or has broken off. The main aim during this period is to stop the bleeding, prevent infection and to allow the Leopard gecko to rest while recovering.

1. The first thing to do in the case of a Leopard gecko tail injury is to separate/isolate it from cage mates. It is best to transfer the injured Leopard gecko to a clean, separate enclosure.
2. In the rare cases where there is still active bleeding shortly after the injury has happened, light pressure can be applied using clean non-sticking cotton wool or wound dressing. Pressure should be applied until the bleeding has stopped. Urgently consult with a reptile friendly veterinarian if the bleeding doesn’t stop after a couple of minutes.
3. Allow the injured Leopard gecko to rest. Reduce handling to a minimum.

Recovering from tail injuries

A Leopard gecko will take about 2 months to fully recover from a tail injury. By this time, the tail should be starting to grow back. After healing of the wound has taken place (seen as the formation of a knob within 3 to 4 weeks after the injury), the tail tissue will start to enlarge and grow into more or less the old tail structure. Some tails will be shorter than the original one. After the injured tail has grown back, a fairly distinctive line will be visible where the tail has broken off. The original bony vertebrae will grow back in the form of cartilage.

After the tail has grown back, one can often see the line where the tail fracture occurred.

During the recovery period, injured Leopard geckos should be handled as little as possible. Also see the correct handling of Leopard geckos for more information. Handling should be restricted to moving between containers for cleaning purposes and too quick, close inspections.

The ‘isolation’ enclosure should be cleaned and disinfected frequently. Droppings should be removed daily. The best substrates to use in isolation enclosures are news- or brown butcher paper. Also see suitable substrates to be used for Leopard geckos for more information. To reduce the risk for infection even further, the enclosure should be disinfected with a disinfectant that is safe to be used in Leopard geckos.

F10 has a wide range of products including wipes, hand soaps, sprays and contact cleaners that is safe and effective to use with Leopard geckos. F10 products are available from certain veterinary clinics and hospitals.

For a Leopard gecko not having a tail means not having additional fat reserves. As the tail grows back, the Leopard gecko needs to replenish its fat reserves. This makes it very important to feed an injured Leopard gecko every day and never skipping a day. During this period both foods high in protein (e.g. crickets and silkworms) and in fat (e.g. mealworms) should be offered. Also see feeding a Leopard gecko for more information.

During the recovery period, guidance from a reptile friendly veterinarian will always have benefits. A veterinarian can help prevent and address complications and can often help with additional medicines that might be needed.

The post Common Tail Injuries in Leopard Geckos – Causes and Treatments appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Preventing Leopard Gecko Bites

The best way to deal with leopard gecko bites is to prevent them from happening in the first place. Here are some tips:

Hand Taming
Tame your leopard gecko by regular gentle handling so it becomes comfortable with you. Support its whole body when picking it up and do not grab at its tail. Taming reduces defensive biting incidents.

Approach Slowly
Move slowly when putting your hand in the enclosure to pick up your leopard gecko. Avoid making sudden movements that may startle it. Give it time to see and smell you first.

No Tail Grabbing
Never grab your leopard gecko by its tail when handling. This is painful and frightening for them and will often trigger biting. Always fully support the body with both hands.

Manage Shedding
Leopard geckos are more irritable when dealing with a bad shed. Try to avoid handling them when undergoing a significant shed. Wait until a couple days after they finish shedding to handle again.

Clean Enclosure
Keep the tank very clean and spotless to minimize stressful conditions. Thoroughly wash decor items and substrates during weekly deep cleaning to prevent build ups.

Reduce Handling After Feeding
Leopard geckos typically prefer not being handled for at least a day after being fed large meals. Their attention and energy is focused on digesting, so hold off handling.

Quarantine New Geckos
House any new geckos separately for a minimum of 90 days before introducing them to others you own. This prevents passing parasites or illness and reduces stress and aggression.

With these preventative care tips, most leopard geckos can enjoy years of docile behavior as pets. But even well-socialized geckos may bite on rare occasions, usually due to mistakes in handling.

Treating Leopard Gecko Bites

If your gecko does manage to bite you, here is how to provide proper first aid treatment at home:

Clean The Wound
Immediately wash the bite area with warm soapy water for a couple of minutes to flush out bacteria and disinfect. Avoid using harsh chemical cleansers.

Apply Antibiotic Ointment
After washing, dry the area gently and apply antibiotic cream to the bite to prevent infection. Topical antibiotics like Neosporin work very well.

Dress it
Cover the wound using fresh bandages, gauzes or plasters once disinfected and treated with antibiotic ointment. Keeping it covered prevents recontamination.

Apply Ice Packs
Gently pressing an ice pack wrapped in cloth against the wound reduces painful swelling and inflammation. Apply for 10-15 minutes 2-3 times daily as needed for pain relief.

Observe for Signs of Infection
Check the bite daily for any worsening redness, swelling, oozing pus, red streaks or increased warmth which indicates infection. Seek medical treatment promptly if it appears infected.

Take Oral Pain Medications
Standard over-the-counter pills like paracetamol or ibuprofen ease bite pain, swelling and soreness. Always follow dosage instructions.

Allow It to Heal
Keep the wound clean, dressed and medicated while aiming to leave it undisturbed as much as realistically possible to heal. Most minor bite wounds heal just fine in 7-10 days with proper first aid.

See Your Doctor If Severe
Consult a physician promptly if the bite site shows severe infection, you develop flu-like symptoms or the wound is extremely deep with persistent bleeding or fails to close. Severe bites risk deeper tissue damage or bacterial contagion requiring antibiotics.

Stress & Infection Risk Factors

Your individual risk of stressful bites causing leopard gecko-induced infection depends on several health factors, including:

– Diabetes hindering normal wound healing abilities

– Compromised immunity vulnerabilities

– Chronic illnesses dependent on medications that impair infection-fighting capabilities

– Advanced age involving greater general infectious vulnerabilities

– Poor circulation reducing blood flow to extremities which impairs recovery

– Obesity making infections more refractory and difficult to treat

Any pre-existing condition or health vulnerability makes bites more concerning. Seek medical attention after a bite if you have additional risk factors until healing progresses fine under self care.

When to Seek Veterinary Care for Biting

While basic first aid suffices for most human victims of leopard gecko bites, veterinary intervention is often required if biting incidents happen between cohabited geckos. Signs to take pets in for care include:

– Bleeding or lacerations requiring sutures

– Infection setting in necessitating antibiotic injections or oral medication dosing

– Missing pieces of tail, feet or flesh requiring wound treatment plus pain control

– Eye injuries or damage

Take bitten geckos into qualified exotics veterinarians if their welfare appears compromised until they stabilize. Separate fighting cagemates immediately once biting starts.

Prevention and vigilance are key to dealing with leopard gecko bites. Carefully handle them using proper technique, observe for signs of illness stress and aggression in pets, quarantine newcomers and faithfully clean cages. Immediately wash and dress any bites that occur, plus continue monitoring for infection daily thereafter. With proper care and handling methods, most leopard geckos remain the mild-tempered captivating creatures that make them the world’s most popular pet lizard. I hope this Dealing with Leopard Gecko Bites- Prevention and Treatment Measures article helps you.

The post How to Handle Leopard Gecko Bites? – Prevention and Care appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Leopard geckos will need to be handled from time to time. They often need to be picked up, shoved, moved from one enclosure to another and/or need to be gripped to be closely inspected. When considering the fragile nature of Leopard geckos and the potential to transmit diseases, handling should be done under responsible supervision and caution should be taken afterwards (see later).

When handling a Leopard gecko, its intentions should be anticipated and it should be observed closely at all times. Untamed Leopard geckos might attempt to escape while being handled. An uncomfortable Leopard gecko can at any time walk, dash or jump from your hands while being handled.

The correct way to handle a Leopard gecko

Adult and baby Leopard geckos are handled differently. Even more so than adults, baby Leopard geckos need to be handled with extra caution.

Handling adult Leopard geckos

Larger, adult Leopard geckos are to be handled with two hands. They can be picked-up by scooping one hand under the belly while supporting the rest of the body with the other hand. The Leopard gecko should be allowed to rest on the palm of your hand while your fingers are gently curled over its back. When sitting down, a tame Leopard gecko can be allowed to sit on the body of the handler.

Handling baby Leopard geckos

Baby Leopard geckos can be picked-up by using your hand to make a ‘cage’ around the body. Tame baby Leopard geckos can also be encouraged by a gentle shove to go and sit in your hand before ‘caging’ your fingers around the body. When handling a baby Leopard gecko, use slow, careful movements and restrict handling to a bare minimum.

Falling injuries

Falling injuries are commonly seen in pet Leopard geckos. Although falls from shorter distances sometimes go without injuries, a fall from a significant height (e.g. from a sitting lap or standing person) can lead to serious internal injuries. Holding and handling a Leopard gecko correctly can prevent unnecessary falls from happening.

Tail injuries

Leopard geckos are known to be able to lose their tails. This commonly happens due to falling injuries (see earlier) or incorrect handling. By grabbing a Leopard gecko by the tail, it can easily break off. Also see tail injuries in Leopard geckos for more information.

Hygiene practices while handling a Leopard gecko

Some diseases can be transmitted from Leopard geckos to humans. In-contact human hands can also be the carrier of certain diseases from an infected Leopard gecko to a healthy one. Irrespective the risk for transmitting diseases, Leopard gecko handlers are always advised to take responsible hygienic precautions.

F10 has a wide range of products including wipes, hand soaps, sprays and contact cleaners that is safe and effective to use with Leopard geckos. F10 products are available from certain veterinary clinics and hospitals.

As a summary, these are good hygiene principles for Leopard gecko owners:

• Do not touch your face while, or directly after, handling a Leopard gecko, the inside of their enclosure, feeder insects or their substrate.
• Protect any open sores or wounds you might have on your hands before touching or handling a Leopard gecko.
• Wash and disinfect your hands (or in-contact skin) directly after handling a Leopard gecko, the inside of their enclosure, their food or their substrate.
• Do not kiss a Leopard gecko or bring it close to your face.
• Do not eat while handling or even close in close proximity with Leopard geckos.
• Use safe, but proven disinfectants to wash, wipe or spray your hands.

For more information, also see our Leopard gecko owner hygiene article.

When not to handle a Leopard gecko

Although it is generally recommended to restrict the handling of Leopard geckos to only when it is absolutely necessary, there are cases where this is more important. Leopard geckos should rather not be handled in the following situations:

The post Safe Handling Techniques for Leopard Geckos appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

In this guide, we will discuss essential traits of a healthy baby Leopard gecko and tips on what to look for when selecting one.

Introduction to a Healthy Baby Leopard Gecko

Choosing a healthy Leopard gecko means observing physical characteristics, behavior, and overall condition. Leopard geckos, like many reptiles, may not always display obvious signs of illness, so knowing what to look for in a healthy individual is key. Here are some common traits to check that indicate good health.

Observing Physical Characteristics and Behavior

Leopard geckos are naturally nocturnal, and this affects how they respond to their environment. Their reaction to movement, posture, eating habits, and body condition all offer clues about their health status. Below are detailed signs to assess when choosing a healthy baby gecko.

Alert Attitude

A healthy baby Leopard gecko should display an alert attitude, especially at night when they are most active. These little reptiles are naturally curious and should show interest in their surroundings. When there’s movement around, the gecko should respond by turning its head or shifting its body to observe. This alertness indicates a well-functioning nervous system and reflects the gecko’s general well-being.

Willingness to Eat

A baby Leopard gecko’s willingness to eat is one of the most telling signs of good health. They should exhibit interest in their food, especially if it’s moving, as this stimulates their natural predatory instincts. If offered prey such as crickets or mealworms, a healthy gecko will approach and may even actively hunt the food. Any noticeable lack of appetite may signal stress, illness, or other health issues.

Clear Eyes, Nose, and Mouth

The eyes, nose, and mouth of a healthy baby Leopard gecko should be clean and free from any discharge. There should be no crusts, sores, or dirt around these areas. Clear eyes without any cloudiness or discharge are particularly important, as issues with these can indicate respiratory infections or eye problems, which are common health issues in geckos.

Clean and Dry Vent Area

The vent, or cloacal area, should be clean and dry. Any dirt or discharge here might suggest digestive problems, possibly diarrhea, which can indicate poor diet or an underlying health issue. Ensuring this area is well-maintained is essential for overall health.

Examining Physical Condition and Posture

Healthy geckos exhibit a certain physical form and posture that speaks to their muscular and skeletal health. Observing how they stand and move is a straightforward way to assess health.

Upright Posture

Healthy Leopard geckos should have an upright posture, with their body and limbs held at a natural angle. This posture shows that they have good muscle and bone health, essential for movement and general activity. A gecko that appears lethargic or has difficulty standing may have issues related to muscle tone or metabolic bone disease (MBD), a condition caused by insufficient calcium intake.

Filled Out Belly

A well-fed baby Leopard gecko typically has a slightly rounded belly, indicating that it’s receiving adequate nutrition. A gecko with a thin or sunken abdomen might not be eating properly or could be suffering from internal parasites. Checking for a full, healthy belly is an easy way to gauge if the gecko has been eating well and is digesting food correctly.

Absence of Swellings in Toes and Tail

The toes and tail of a healthy Leopard gecko should be free from any swellings. Swollen toes can indicate shedding problems, a common issue for geckos that don’t have adequate humidity in their environment. Swelling in the tail could signal internal issues or even trauma. Checking these areas can prevent future complications and ensure a smooth shedding process.

Further Indicators of Health in Baby Leopard Geckos

In addition to the core signs listed above, there are other aspects of a Leopard gecko’s appearance and behavior that can help determine its health.

Healthy Skin Shedding Process

Leopard geckos shed their skin periodically, and a healthy gecko should have a smooth shedding process. Signs of incomplete shedding, such as retained skin on the toes or around the eyes, can lead to more serious issues like restricted blood flow. Monitoring the shedding process can help ensure that the gecko has a balanced environment with appropriate humidity levels.

Healthy Bone and Muscle Structure

Leopard geckos require calcium for strong bones and muscles. Without sufficient calcium, they risk developing metabolic bone disease, which can lead to fragile bones and abnormal body structures. To check for a healthy bone structure, observe their posture and movement, ensuring that they can move easily and support themselves without difficulty.

Vibrant and Clear Skin

The skin of a healthy Leopard gecko should appear smooth, vibrant, and free of any discoloration or bumps. Skin that appears dull, patchy, or bumpy could indicate a fungal infection or skin condition. Regular inspection of their skin is a proactive way to catch any issues early.

Behavioral Indicators of a Healthy Baby Leopard Gecko

Behavior is another vital aspect when assessing the health of your Leopard gecko. Not only should they respond to food and movement, but they should also display certain natural behaviors that indicate comfort and well-being.

Curiosity and Exploration

A healthy baby Leopard gecko should show curiosity about its environment, especially during active hours. It may explore the enclosure, check out new objects, and investigate its surroundings. This behavior reflects both physical and mental well-being.

Lack of Aggression or Stress

Leopard geckos are generally docile and calm. Signs of aggression or stress, such as tail waving, open-mouthed hissing, or biting, could indicate discomfort or health issues. Ensuring that the gecko feels safe and comfortable in its environment is essential for maintaining its health.

Essential Care Tips for Maintaining a Healthy Baby Leopard Gecko

After selecting a healthy baby Leopard gecko, ongoing care is crucial to keeping it that way. Here are some essential tips to ensure a thriving pet:

Providing a Balanced Diet

A varied diet is key to keeping Leopard geckos healthy. Their diet should include live insects like crickets, mealworms, and occasional waxworms, dusted with calcium powder to support bone health. Gut-loading insects with nutritious foods before feeding them to your gecko ensures that it receives essential vitamins and minerals.

Proper Habitat Setup

Setting up a comfortable and safe habitat is fundamental to your Leopard gecko’s health. Include hiding spots, appropriate substrate, and maintain ideal temperature and humidity levels. Leopard geckos need a temperature gradient in their enclosure, with a warm basking area and a cooler side for thermoregulation.

Regular Health Check-Ups

Regularly inspecting your gecko for any signs of illness, abnormal behavior, or physical changes is important. Observing daily activities like eating, drinking, and shedding can help catch issues early and allow for timely treatment.

Final Thoughts on Selecting and Caring for a Baby Leopard Gecko

Owning a Leopard gecko is a rewarding experience, but it requires commitment to provide proper care and attention. By knowing what to look for in a healthy baby gecko and maintaining a well-balanced diet and safe habitat, you can ensure that your pet remains healthy and happy for years to come. Keeping these tips in mind will help you make informed decisions when selecting and caring for your Leopard gecko.

The post Identifying a Healthy Baby Leopard Gecko- Key Signs to Look For? appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Transmission of Cryptosporidium

Cryptosporidium parasites spread through the ingestion of infected fecal particles. The parasites produce hardy oocysts that can survive for lengthy periods in the environment. In leopard geckos, transmission most often occurs through contact with infected feces or ingestion of food or water contaminated with oocysts. The parasites can spread via unclean habitats, shared enclosure items, or contact with infected animals. Care must be taken to prevent cross-contamination in breeding or collection facilities. Good hygiene and quarantine practices are crucial in controlling outbreaks.

Signs and Symptoms

The most common signs of cryptosporidiosis in leopard geckos are chronic, watery diarrhea, weight loss, lethargy, and poor appetite. Infected geckos often produce excess feces due to intestinal irritation and impaired absorption of nutrients. The feces may be loose or liquid with a distinctive offensive odor. More severely affected geckos can become emaciated and dehydrated without treatment. They may also vomit, strain to defecate, or prolapse their hemipenis or cloaca.

Some infected geckos display no obvious clinical signs, acting as asymptomatic carriers. These carriers still shed infectious oocysts in their feces, serving as sources of infection for other apparently healthy geckos. Cryptosporidium oocysts can survive even harsh environmental conditions for months at a time. As few as five to ten oocysts may be enough to transmit infection to a new host.

Diagnosis

Diagnosing cryptosporidiosis requires laboratory testing of fresh fecal samples. Oocysts are tiny and cannot be seen with the naked eye. Fecal smears, flotations, antigen detection assays, or PCR tests allow veterinarians to identify Cryptosporidium oocysts. In a veterinary clinic, infected animals must be strictly isolated to prevent contamination of housing areas, equipment, or other patients.

At home, pet owners noticing symptoms should collect fresh fecal samples and schedule a veterinary appointment for proper diagnostic testing. Cleanliness is vital – bleaching habitats between periods of use can help control parasite numbers. Sick leopard geckos should be quarantined while undergoing treatment.

Treatment

There is no specific drug approved for treating cryptosporidiosis in reptiles. Supportive care with fluid therapy, nutritional support, and environmental management form the basis of therapy. Infected animals kept fully hydrated can often recover with time as their immune response fights off the infection.

Oral or injectable antibiotic therapy may be used to control secondary bacterial infections resulting from cryptosporidiosis. Anti-protozoal medications like paromomycin, azithromycin, or nitazoxanide may help resolve symptoms faster, but do not reliably eliminate Cryptosporidium infection. Repeat courses of treatment are often required, and medication dosages must be carefully calibrated for leopard geckos’ small body size.

Even after symptoms resolve, geckos should be retested at least twice over a 60-90 day period to confirm elimination of the parasite. Continued isolation protocols are essential until fecal tests are definitively negative.

Prognosis

With aggressive therapy, supportive care, and excellent husbandry, the prognosis for cryptosporidiosis is generally good. Healthy adult leopard geckos often recover fully if the infection is caught and treated promptly. Younger, older or immunocompromised geckos tend to suffer more severely from cryptosporidiosis and can sometimes die without intense therapy.

Prevention

Preventing introduction of Cryptosporidium is key, as treating established infections can be challenging. Quarantine and screening new arrivals, plus basic biosecurity measures, can help control this highly contagious parasite. Bleaching cages, washing hands vigorously after contact, and dedicating equipment to individual animals limits opportunities for transmission. Avoiding exposure to wild insects that may carry oocysts can also reduce risk.

In facilities housing multiple geckos, separating healthy from infected animals using dedicated rooms, tools and staff is critical for containment. Meticulous daily husbandry focused on hygiene and strict cleaning protocols in animal areas can help curb outbreaks. Keeping accurate records aids in tracking infections within a collection.

While frustrating to treat, with concerted effort, watchfulness and proper husbandry techniques, leopard gecko breeders and pet owners can successfully manage cryptosporidiosis infections. Stopping the spread of this stubborn parasite requires vigilance, but the reward is healthy, thriving geckos. Consistent prevention and biosecurity provide the best safeguard against Cryptosporidium transmission. I sincerely hope you find this “Cryptosporidiosis in Leopard geckos” article helpful.

The post Cryptosporidiosis in Leopard Geckos – Symptoms and Treatment appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

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Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos (also known as dysecdysis) is usually an indication that something else is wrong. This post discusses what abnormal skin shedding look like in Leopard geckos and point out its most common reasons.

Leopard geckos shed the outer parts of their skin as they grow. Skin shedding (also called ecdysis or moulting) is seen from time to time and is more frequent in baby and juvenile Leopard geckos.

Normal skin shedding in Leopard geckos

During the shedding process, the skin will turn white to grey after which pieces will start to become loose and peel off. Normally, Leopard geckos will shed their skins in one, large, complete piece. It is also normal for Leopard geckos to eat their sloughed skins in the process. The frequency at which Leopard geckos shed their skins is more or less dependant on the rate at which they grow. Adult Leopard geckos will shed approximately every 4 to 5 weeks and the skin shedding process should take a couple of hours at most. Also see Leopard gecko skin shedding for more information.

Normal behavioural changes before, during and after the shedding process include the following:

• Agitation, sometimes leading to biting behaviour
• Lethargy in the form of moving slower, or moving less
• Hiding and spending more time in the hide box
• Anorexia (no or reduced appetite)
• Soaking in the water dish (also see soaking behaviour in Leopard geckos for more information).

By keeping records, normal patterns, frequencies and durations of your own Leopard gecko’s skin sheddings can be archived and monitored for abnormalities.

Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos

Abnormal skin shedding (dysecdysis) in Leopard geckos is evident by one or more of the following:

• Prolonged skin shedding (taking more than a day or two from when skin peeling starts)
• Partial shedding, i.e. the skin is peeling off in multiple small pieces and some pieces still stay behind on the body.
• Prolonged periods between one skin shed to the next
• Excessive time spent in the water container

Skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos can be due to various factors. Most shedding problems occur when there is a deviation in the main environmental factors. Other contributing factors include age, skin infections, Leopard gecko parasites, stress, injuries and excessive handling during the shedding period.  Abnormal skin shedding is also often the result of health problems such as hypovitaminosis A.

Common environmental reasons for dysecdysis include incorrect temperatures and wrong humidities. Leopard geckos will thrive in temperatures of 25 – 32 ºC / 77 – 90 ºF with a drop to room temperature during the evenings. Temperatures can be measured using a thermometer. When the environmental temperature is too low, it can lead to chronic stress, retarded growth and diseases. The humidity is probably the single factor leading to most Leopard gecko shedding problems. A low humidity (i.e. a too dry environment) prevents old skin from loosening properly, leading to pieces remaining stuck on the body.

Potential complications from shedding problems

Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos does not go without potential problems. A major problem includes the constriction of toes, parts of the tail, legs and feet. Unslaughed skin that remains in these areas has a restriction effect (almost like a tourniquet) due to the expansion of the area underneath. Areas/extremities distal to constrictions are deprived of normal blood flow and are ultimately at risk for tissue necrosis and detachment.

Leopard gecko foot missing multiple toes due to skin constrictions.

Another complication due to dysecdysis in Leopard geckos is secondary skin, mouth and eye infections. Retained skin can serve as growing sites for various bacteria.

How to treat skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos

In Leopard geckos, dysecdysis is almost always the consequence of other problems. Identifying these problems is often more important than identifying the shedding problem itself.

Immediate home management includes increasing the humidity by either increasing the size of the water bowl and/or adding a hide box with a moist substrate. If you already have a hide box, make sure that the substrate is fresh and moist. Starting when the skin turns dull, the shedding process of Leopard geckos can also be helped by daily gentle misting of the enclosure and daily lukewarm baths in a shallow container. If the shedding problems persist, reoccurs and/or there are already pieces of skin stuck to the body, professional help is indicated.

Leopard geckos with shedding problems should be evaluated by a reptile friendly veterinarian. The treatment of Leopard gecko shedding problems is threefold, namely to remove the remaining skin, to treat the underlying cause and to treat the complications.

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