Introduction to Leopard gecko lighting

It has been said that there can be no day without night, and there can be no night without day.

Day and night cycles can be created using light. In addition to creating a sensible photoperiod, the correct Leopard gecko lighting can also be used to supply heat and areas to bask in and can improve the aesthetic appearance of terrariums during the day or at night.

In nature, Leopard geckos are mainly active during the hours of dusk, dawn and during evenings. In other words, during times where the light intensity is low and/or there is no light at all. Many Leopard geckos are kept without any form of lighting⁽⁵⁰⁾, but by supplying light, their environment and activities can be made more natural.

The topic of supplying ultraviolet lighting (UVB) is still controversial⁽⁵⁰⁾, but by looking at their natural behaviour, UVB lighting can be used with caution under certain circumstances.

Lighting for Leopard geckos comes in various shapes, types and sizes. The necessity of lighting and the type of lighting used will depend on the type of housing (enclosure) and where it is located. For pet Leopard geckos, lighting is most often supplied artificially using electric light sources. An electrical timer can be used to switch lighting equipment on or off at desired.

Lighting equipment and other Leopard gecko accessories and care items are available online (e.g. Amazon.com), from specialised pet shops and general hardware stores.

Natural Leopard gecko lighting and activity

Various literature sources exist where the time of day, i.e. natural light cycles, are reported to have an effect on the natural behaviour of Leopard geckos^(49)(64)(66).

Leopard geckos live in areas where it is considered to be bright and sunny during the day. Although this is true, these geckos are considered to be crepuscular^(50)(51)(59) to nocturnal^(49)(64)(69) in nature.

In Pakistan, Leopard geckos were observed to be mostly active during the hours of dusk and dawn⁽⁴⁹⁾ — just before sunrise and just after sunset — and during the evenings.  Sherman & Minton report them to be strictly nocturnal where Leopard geckos only start to become visible at sunset⁽⁶⁴⁾.

Leopard geckos prefer to spend their days sheltering and hiding under or between rocks or under plants⁽⁶⁰⁾. Although Leopard geckos have been observed basking during the day⁽³⁴⁾, it is more important that heat is supplied from below in order for basking to take place. Evening basking will take place on rocks that were heated during the day⁽³²⁾.

Day and night are not only about light and dark. In nature, there is also a seasonal pattern to how long these periods are — called the photoperiod. As longer nights in winter become shorter in summer, Leopard geckos are able to establish the four seasons of the year.

Also see
Natural distribution of Leopard geckos

Lighting for Leopard geckos can either be direct or indirect, or natural or artificial. The type of lighting used will dependant on the size and type of enclosure. Lighting can also be divided into daylight and night light.

Direct vs. indirect lighting

Direct lighting is when there is no obstruction between the light source and the inside of the enclosure. For Leopard geckos, it is best supplied using overhead artificial lighting in the form of incandescent, fluorescent or halogen lamps. Commercial reptile lighting products are preferred over non-commercial or non-specialised ones.

Overhead lighting can either be mounted onto the side of cabinet-like enclosures, into the lid of glass enclosures or placed on top of mesh lids. Ones that are mounted on the inside of enclosures should be mounted securely and placed high up to prevent direct contact with Leopard geckos. Direct lighting can also be placed on top of screen lids or mounted onto a lampstand.

On the other hand, indirect lighting is when there is a barrier, e.g. glass or transparent plastic, separating the light source and the inside of the enclosure, but still allow light to pass through.

A good example of indirect lighting for Leopard geckos would be the light emitted from a lit room. The light in the room can either be natural light shining in from a window or artificial light in the form of electrical light. As the room becomes dark, so does the enclosure.

Natural vs. artificial lighting

Wild Leopard geckos live in environments where they are exposed to sunlight — in other words, natural lighting. Sunlight produces the entire visible light spectrum (including the infrared to ultraviolet waves – see later).

Taking into consideration the risk for overheating and their crepuscular behaviour, direct, natural light (i.e. sunlight) is almost never a good choice when it comes to long a term lighting solution for pet Leopard geckos. Pet Leopard geckos have been reported to get sunburned when exposed to sunlight. Also, placing an enclosure in direct sunlight can lead to temperature spikes which can be life-threatening.

Lighting can also be produced artificially. Artificial light can be produced from sources such as fluorescent tubes, halogen lamps and incandescent bulbs using electricity. It is more practical and much safer than natural lighting and is probably the most common form of lighting for Leopard geckos.

These days, both ultraviolet and infrared waves can be produced artificially using specialised lighting.

Lighting vs. heating

In some cases, a light source can also be used as a heat source. Any light source emitting infrared (IR) waves will produce some degree of heat.

Most artificial light sources will raise the ambient temperature inside an enclosure — at least to some degree. The same goes for night lighting.

Incandescent light bulbs (those with a wire filament that is heated until it glows) are more efficient in producing heat. The higher the power output (in Watt) the more heat will be produced. An incandescent spotlight pointed at a heat-absorbing platform (e.g. a rock) is popularly used to create a basking area for Leopard geckos.

Day vs. night lighting for Leopard geckos

Lighting for Leopard geckos can also be in the form of night light. Special, commercial reptile night lights are available for Leopard geckos. Night lights are said not to interfere with their behaviour and/or affect the overall photoperiod. Night lights can either be used for their night light-emitting properties only, or to supply heat in the process.

While light during the day mimics a more natural environment, night lighting is purely for owners to be able to view the inside of a Leopard gecko’s enclosure. While daylight light rays are visible to people and Leopard geckos, night lights are only visible to people. In other words, while we as humans are able to see night light inside a Leopard gecko’s enclosure, a Leopard gecko will not.

Lighting and photoperiod

Day and night are not only about light and dark — there is also a seasonal photoperiod associated with these times.

The photoperiod is the amount of time per day (in hours and minutes) it is considered to be light (vs. dark). The natural photoperiod for Leopard geckos is more or less 11 hours in winter and 13 hours in summer. This is often better controlled by using an electrical timer switch.

Also see
The photoperiod for Leopard geckos

Ultraviolet (UV) lighting for Leopard geckos

Looking at the visible light spectrum, ultraviolet (UV) rays are those with the shortest wavelengths (280 – 400 nm). Infrared (IR) rays are on the opposite side of this spectrum and are mainly used for emitting heat. Both UV and IR, and all the wavelengths in between, are naturally produced by the sun, but can also be produced artificially using specialised lighting.

UV light can be divided into UVA (315 – 400 nm wavelengths) and UVB (280 – 315 nm wavelengths). UVB is known to play an important role in the production of vitamin D₃ in diurnal lizards (mostly active during the day). Vitamin D₃ is required for calcium absorption from the intestines and its metabolism.

The common argument about using UV lighting in Leopard geckos is that they are mostly active during, dusk, dawn and the evenings — do they need UV lighting?^(50)(51) Another argument is that Leopard geckos have been kept healthy and successfully for generations without UV lighting⁽⁵¹⁾.

For these reasons, many Leopard gecko keepers prefer not to use UV lighting at all. Others⁽⁵¹⁾ do recommend its use with caution and only under certain circumstances:

• UV lighting should only be used during the day
• UV lamps should be mounted around 30 cm / 12 ” away from the floor of the enclosure⁽⁵⁰⁾
• Low form tubes (in the T8 range) and/or low-intensity UV lights (5-5%) should be used⁽⁵⁰⁾
• Proper hiding areas (“deep dark hides”) isolating the Leopard gecko completely should be supplied⁽⁵⁰⁾

Also see
Leopard gecko hide areas and hide boxes

Thermometers and electrical timers can make lighting equipment easier to use.

Thermometers

Thermometers come in different shapes and sizes and are used to measure temperatures.

Before the installation of lighting equipment is finalised, daytime and nighttime temperatures should be measured in various areas of the enclosure. A thermometer can also be permanently installed on the inside of the enclosure to keep a constant watch on the temperatures. The probe of the thermometer should preferably be inserted into or under the substrate⁽³²⁾.

The REPTI ZOO Reptile Terrarium thermometer can read the temperatures in the recommended temperature range of Leopard geckos. Available from Amazon.com

Also see
Leopard gecko thermometers

Electrical timers

Electrical timers (or electrical timer switches) can also be used to switch lighting equipment on or off at the desired times.

Zoo Med Repticare Day Night Timer can turn daylights on in the morning and off at night and nightlights on at night and off in the morning. It is perfect for regulating the photoperiod of Leopard geckos. Available from Amazon.com

Also see
Using electrical timers with Leopard geckos

Conclusion

Lighting plays an important part in creating a more natural environment and natural behaviour in Leopard geckos. Various types of lighting exist for Leopard geckos and lighting can also be used as heating.

UV lighting can be used with Leopard geckos, but only under certain circumstances and with caution.

Lighting accessories such as electrical timers and thermometers can make the use of lighting easier.

The post How to Properly Supply Light for Your Leopard Gecko appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

In this comprehensive blog post, we will cover everything you need to know about using electrical timers for leopard geckos including:

• Benefits of Using Timers
• Types of Timers
• Programming & Setup
• Day/Night Cycle Recommendations
• Tips for Success
• Safety Precautions
• Top Timer Picks for Leopard Geckos

Benefits of Using Timers

Using an electrical timer for your leopard gecko’s lighting and heating offers many benefits including:

Consistency – Timers allow day/night cycles to be precisely controlled each day. This consistency is important for the health and wellbeing of leopard geckos. Fluctuating light cycles can cause stress.

Convenience – Once set up properly, a timer runs automatically meaning you don’t have to worry about manually turning lights/heating on and off each day.

Energy Efficiency – Timers prevent wasted energy from accidentally leaving lights and heating on 24/7. They automatically switch off at night.

Types of Timers

There are two main types of electrical timers that work well for leopard geckos:

Mechanical Timers – Inexpensive, manually adjusted to set on/off times. Not as precise as digital but get the job done.

Digital Timers – Offer more features like day of the week customization. Often built into power strips designed for terrariums.

When selecting a timer, make sure it can handle the electrical load. Additionally, timers built specifically for reptile/amphibian use will have features to control humidity and separate day/night heat sources.

Programming & Setup

Refer to the specific timer’s manual for exact programming directions. General setup process:

1. Plug timer into wall outlet
2. Set the clock to current time
3. Program the ON time for when lights/heating should turn on in the morning
4. Program OFF time for when lights/heating should switch off at night
5. Set mode to AUTO so timer follows programmed schedule
6. Plug devices into timer

Most quality timers make programming a straightforward process with an easy-to-read digital or analog display. Setting and adjusting on/off times is simple. Just avoid unplugging devices when timer is powered on to prevent losing program memory.

Day/Night Cycle Recommendations

The general lighting guidelines for leopard geckos are:

Day Cycle – 12 to 14 hours of light when your gecko is awake and active. Most owners provide 13 hours of daylight. During this time temperatures in the warm hide should be 88-92°F.

Night Cycle – 10 to 12 hours of darkness when your gecko sleeps. 11 hours is recommended. Temperatures can drop to 70-75°F at night.

With an electrical timer properly setup, you can precisely control this day/night schedule and give your leopard gecko the most naturalistic environment possible.

Tips for Success

Follow these tips when using timers for leopard geckos:

• Use a surge protector. Electrical surges can wipe timer memory.
• Check programming daily. Verify everything is working properly.
• Use battery backup. Maintains timer schedule if power goes out.
• Leave moonlight/night bulb on at night. Allows some visibility without disrupting sleep.

Safety Precautions

Be sure to follow these important safety guidelines:

• Don’t exceed timer’s electrical rating. Can cause overheating.
• Ensure proper wattage/voltage for country. Improper voltage can damage devices.
• Frequently check cords for damage. Don’t use frayed or cracked wires.
• Keep away from moisture and water to avoid electrical hazards.
• Position out of reach of children and pets to avoid accidental reprogramming.

Top Timer Picks for Leopard Geckos

Based on features and actual customer reviews, here are my top timer recommendations:

Zilla 24/7 Digital Timer Power Center – Well-designed terrarium strip with day/night outlets. Battery backup. Handles high wattages.

Century Digital Timer – Very affordable. Easy to program. Manual override option.

BN-LINK Digital Timer – Packs lots of options into a compact timer. Can control two electrical devices separately.

Zoo Med’s Terrarium Timer – Analog dial makes time adjustments a cinch. Separate day/night channels. Sturdy and reliable performance.

Conclusion

Investing in an electrical timer is one of the best ways to provide your leopard gecko with proper lighting and heating. Programmable timers automate day/night cycles for consistency and convenience. Just be sure to follow all safety guidelines and double check the programming periodically. With a quality timer controlling the environment, you can ensure your leopard gecko lives a long, healthy, and happy life. I sincerely hope you find this “Leopard Gecko Using electrical timers” article helpful.

The post Using Electrical Timers for Leopard Gecko Lighting Needs appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

The photoperiod is the time a Leopard gecko is exposed to light (vs. darkness) – over a period of 24 hours. When placed in an artificial environment, the photoperiod needs to be considered as it has an effect on a Leopard gecko’s activity and reproduction.

The photoperiod is the period of time each day during which an organism receives illumination. In other words, it is the day length. In nature, the photoperiod is mainly determined by the sun. For Leopard geckos, the photoperiod affects the day-night-rhythm which has an effect on their activity and is (over time) used to determine the four seasons of the year.

Leopard geckos are crepuscular and nocturnal animals, meaning they are mainly active from dusk until dawn. During the day, Leopard geckos will hide away and sleep most of the time. When comparing the amount of time Leopard geckos actually spend in lit areas with, for example, diurnal animals, it is often concluded that the photoperiod plays an insignificant role.

Even though this might not be what is seen in pet Leopard geckos, scientists have determined that the amount of melatonin (see later) varies when there is a variation in their photoperiod – which suggest that photoperiod might have an effect on their reproduction. Literature also states that irregular photoperiods and excessive periods of darkness are stressors of Leopard geckos⁽²⁹⁾.

Natural photoperiod for Leopard geckos

When looking at the day-night rhythms in South Asia there is a relatively small difference between seasonal photoperiods. Starting to increase after winder, daylengths are at their longest in June (about 12 hours and 50 minutes). The shortest days are in December and January (11 hours and 30 minutes). This gives about 11 hours and 10 minutes of nighttime during summer and 12 hours thirty during the winter months. During autumn and spring the daylight length will gradually change towards or away from about 13 hours per day. Also see natural distribution and habitat of Leopard geckos for more information.

The pineal gland of Leopard geckos

Most vertebrates, including Leopard geckos, have what is called a pineal gland (also referred to as a ‘third eye‘ or ‘pineal eye‘). It is a small pea-shaped gland situated in the brain which is sensitive to environmental light (i.e. the photoperiod). The pineal gland of Leopard geckos should not be confused with the Jacobson’s organ (which is an organ used to ‘smell’). Although some of the pineal gland’s functions are still unknown, it is known that it secretes melatonin (a hormone) when lizards are exposed to light (e.g. daylight). Being dependant on the seasonal changes (in other words the photoperiod), the pineal gland of most lizards are well developed.

Longer days (13 hours per day) will lead to more melatonin secretion and vice versa. In other words, when the concentration of melatonin is relatively low (i.e. when the day-length is relatively short when compared with the night-length – about 11 hours per day) a Leopard geckos’s brain can determine that it is winter. Leopard geckos can also determine whether it is spring or autumn through regular changes of melatonin. When there is a sudden change in the concentration from low to high (i.e. during spring) these hormones, among other things, stimulate breeding behaviour.

Controlling the photoperiod for pet Leopard geckos

Even though there is a seasonal variation in the photoperiod in nature, the well-being and breeding patterns of pet Leopard geckos do not seem to change significantly. Most Leopard gecko keepers prefer to use natural room lighting or 12 hours of light where artificial light needs to be provided. Artificial light can either be supplied by using a light bright enough to lid the room or as a low wattage (40 Watt) light or a reptile night light shining onto or into the container. Whatever lighting is used, it should not interfere with the temperature of the keeping container (also see supplying heat to pet Leopard geckos for more information.

To create a photoperiod that resembles the day-night cycles in South Asia, lighting equipment can be used. By changing the on-off light cycles in combination with a seasonal roster a more natural photoperiod can be created. This process can either be done manually or by using a programmable electric timer.

As mentioned previously, lighting should be on for about 13 hours per day during the three main months of summer. During the three winter months, the lights should be on for 11 hours and off for 13 hours. During the three months of spring, the light period should be gradually increased from 11 to 13 hours per day and from 13 to 11 hours per day during autumn.

References

• 30) Boyer, Thomas H.; Garner, Michael M.; Reavill, Drury R.; Steffes, Zachary J. Leopard Gecko Diseases and Care. Proceedings. Retrieved 22 July 2020

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Why Temperature Control is Vital for Leopard Geckos

Dr. Sarah Jenkins, DVM, a leading reptile veterinarian at the Exotic Pet Care Center, explains: “Leopard geckos require specific temperature gradients to properly regulate their bodily functions. Even slight temperature variations can impact digestion, immune system health, and daily activity levels.” To support these bodily functions, leopard geckos depend on different temperature zones in their environment.

Optimal Temperature Ranges

Setting the right temperature zones in your gecko’s enclosure is crucial. Here are the ideal ranges for various sections:

• Basking Spot: 88-92°F (31-33°C)
• Warm Side: 85-88°F (29-31°C)
• Cool Side: 75-80°F (24-27°C)
• Nighttime Temperature: 70-75°F (21-24°C)

These gradients allow your leopard gecko to self-regulate its body temperature by moving to warmer or cooler areas as needed.

Types of Thermometers for Leopard Gecko Enclosures

Selecting the right thermometer is key to accurately measuring and maintaining temperatures. Here’s a breakdown of the three main types:

1. Digital Thermometers

Pros:

• High accuracy, usually within ±0.5°F
• Easy-to-read display
• Many models include humidity readings
• Quick response time for real-time monitoring

Cons:

• Requires batteries, which need periodic replacement
• More expensive than analog models
• May require occasional recalibration

2. Infrared Temperature Guns

Pros:

• Instantly reads surface temperatures
• Non-invasive, making it less stressful for your gecko
• Useful for checking multiple spots within the enclosure

Cons:

• Higher initial cost
• Measures only surface temperatures
• Requires proper technique for accurate readings

3. Analog Thermometers

Pros:

• Battery-free, simple operation
• Generally affordable
• User-friendly

Cons:

• Less precise than digital models
• Slower response times
• Can be harder to read accurately

Key Features to Consider When Choosing a Thermometer

To ensure you’re providing the best for your gecko, here are some critical features to look for in a thermometer:

Accuracy

Temperature precision is essential. Look for thermometers with:

• An accuracy rating of ±0.5°F or better
• Regular calibration capabilities for consistent performance
• Consistent readings across various tests

Durability

A durable thermometer lasts longer and provides reliable readings:

• Water-resistant construction helps it withstand humidity
• Strong probe cables for digital models
• High-quality materials for the casing

Ease of Use

Ease of use ensures you can quickly check temperatures without hassle:

• Clear, easy-to-read display
• Simple control settings
• Multiple mounting options for convenience

Comparative Analysis of Popular Thermometers

Here’s a quick comparison of some popular thermometers commonly used by leopard gecko owners:

This table serves as a quick reference to help you select a reliable thermometer based on your budget and preferred features.

Correct Thermometer Placement and Usage

Proper thermometer placement is essential to get accurate readings. Here’s a placement guide based on recommendations from the Reptile Care Association:

• Primary Basking Area: Place the probe 1-2 inches above the basking spot. Monitor during peak heating hours and verify readings with a secondary thermometer.
• Cool Side Monitoring: Position the thermometer at gecko height, away from direct heat sources, and check at different times of the day.
• Ambient Temperature: Place another thermometer mid-height in the enclosure, away from walls and decorations, to monitor general temperature trends.

Managing Seasonal Temperature Changes

Seasonal shifts can influence your gecko’s enclosure temperatures. Here’s how to adjust:

Summer Considerations

During hot summer months:

• Increase ventilation within the enclosure
• Regularly monitor for temperature spikes
• Adjust heating elements as necessary to avoid overheating

Winter Adjustments

For cooler winter months:

• Check for drafts that may lower temperatures
• Consider supplemental heating if necessary
• Monitor nighttime temperatures to prevent excessive drops

Case Study: Success in Temperature Management

John Martinez, a seasoned leopard gecko breeder with over 15 years of experience, shares his insights: “After switching to a high-quality digital thermometer with dual probes, I noticed immediate improvements in my geckos’ activity levels and feeding response. Accurate readings allowed me to fine-tune their environment, resulting in healthier and more active pets.”

Common Temperature-Related Health Issues in Leopard Geckos

Temperature control is crucial for preventing health problems. Veterinary records and expert sources outline the following temperature-related issues:

• Digestive Problems: Insufficient basking temperatures can lead to digestive issues and impaction, affecting nutrient absorption.
• Metabolic Issues: Chronically low temperatures weaken the immune system and can stunt growth, particularly in younger geckos.
• Stress-Related Behaviors: Rapid temperature fluctuations can cause stress, leading to reduced appetite and diminished breeding success.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How often should I check temperatures?

A: Monitor temperatures at least twice daily, ideally in the morning and evening.

Q: Should I use multiple thermometers?

A: Yes, using 2-3 thermometers helps verify accuracy and monitor different zones within the enclosure.

Q: How often should I calibrate my thermometer?

A: For digital thermometers, calibrate every 3-6 months to maintain accuracy.

Expert Recommendations for Temperature Management

Dr. Michael Brown, a reptile specialist at the Exotic Animal Hospital, recommends investing in a high-quality digital thermometer with a probe feature. “The initial cost may seem high, but the accuracy and reliability it provides are invaluable in maintaining a stable environment for your leopard gecko.”

Conclusion: Providing the Best for Your Leopard Gecko

Choosing the right thermometer is a small investment that can make a significant impact on your leopard gecko’s quality of life. While digital thermometers with probes generally offer the best combination of accuracy and ease of use, the most crucial aspect is regular monitoring and maintenance of the enclosure’s temperature gradients.

In summary:

• Regularly verify readings to ensure accuracy
• Maintain backup thermometers for consistency
• Keep records of temperature changes and address variations promptly

By following these guidelines and using quality temperature monitoring tools, you’ll create an optimal environment where your leopard gecko can thrive.

The post Choosing the Best Thermometer for Your Leopard Gecko Habitat appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

The humidity is basically the amount of water, in the form of vapour, in the air. In more technical terms it can be expressed as the relative humidity which is the amount of vapour in the air as a percentage of the space of air that can hold vapour. Higher percentages mean higher humidity and vice versa.

A visual example of relative humidity (RH). The area above the water source represents the air in which water can evaporate and the particles represent the water particles. Image from blog.cashins.com

Just think of your Leopard gecko’s enclosure as a closed space of air, and the humidity as the amount of water in that space. Being enclosed, that area’s humidity will be different from the room the enclosure is situated at.

Factors affecting humidity

Apart from the size, or the area for water to evaporate in (which is usually relatively small in the case of Leopard gecko enclosures), factors such as the ventilation, temperature, substrate and the amount of water available also greatly affect the humidity.

Comparatively more ventilation, larges spaces, less water and lower temperatures lead to lower relative humidities. The opposite is true for less ventilation, smaller spaces, more water and higher temperatures.

In the case of pet Leopard geckos, we have the most control over the temperature (e.g. heat pads) and the amount of water (e.g. size of the water dish and hiding boxes).

What humidity are we talking about for keeping Leopard geckos?

Remember that Leopard geckos originate from the drier and desert areas of Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Iran. The outside humidity in these areas is on average about 40 – 50% – which is quite low compared to non-desert areas.

Saying this, Leopard geckos are also considered ground-dwelling, and during the day, hideaway in small areas where the humidity is a little higher.

In other words, pet Leopard geckos need relative low humidities with hiding areas of higher humidities.

Why humidity is important for keeping Leopard geckos

Generally, too high humidities will lead to an increase in diseases. In this case, diseases such as intestinal parasites, skin and mouth infections, and pneumonia are more common.

When the humidity is too low, the risk for dehydration, overheating and skin shedding problems increase.

How will I know what the humidity is like?

The humidity can be measured with a hygrometer. By looking around, small commercial hygrometers might be available from some pet shops and on the internet. Some Leopard gecko keepers are also handy enough to make their own hygrometer.

Exo-Terra produces a very popular, small and cost-effective reptile hygrometer. Available from Amazon.com

A terrarium hygrometer can be placed directly in the space where you want to measure the humidity. It is always a good idea to take multiple readings, for example during the day and during the evening.

Approaching humidity in Leopard geckos

First of all, it is important to note that the humidity will vary from setup to setup, i.e. no two Leopard gecko enclosures will have exactly the same humidity.

Before changing anything, or before finalising the setup, test the humidity first.

The general idea is to have an enclosure with fairly low humidity and hiding areas with higher humidities. My first guideline is to have a small water dish with a hide box filled with moist (not wet), clean peat/sphagnum moss or vermiculite. This will work for the majority of setups. Both the hide box and the water dish should be placed in the cooler side of the enclosure.

When, after testing, the enclosure humidity is still grossly incorrect, a smaller water dish, lower temperature and more ventilation will decrease the humidity. When it is really on the low side (e.g. < 40%), it can be increased by doing the opposite.

How will I know the humidity is incorrect?

The problem is that you might not know until it is too late. It must also be noted that even incorrect humidities might not necessarily lead to problems, ever, but for those that might show problems, the problems can be severe and even lead to death.

Apart from unrecommended humidity measurements, keepers might also pick up something is wrong when a Leopard gecko spends too much time in the water dish or in hiding. Other geckos might try to escape by climbing the wall of the container while others might show open-mouth breathing or poor appetites.

The post How to Maintain the Right Humidity for Your Leopard Gecko? appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

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Ideal Incubation Temperature Range

The ideal incubation temperature range for leopard gecko eggs is between 82-88°F (28-31°C). This narrow temperature range provides the optimum conditions for normal embryonic development. Temperatures above or below this range can cause issues:

• Temperatures under 82°F can slow development, increase the chance of birth defects and lower hatch rates.
• Temperatures above 88°F can cause deformities, incomplete egg tooth development, and even embryo death.

So it’s vital to keep the incubation temperatures in the 82-88° degree sweet spot.

Where to Incubate the Eggs

You have a few options on where to incubate leopard gecko eggs:

• Commercial Reptile Egg Incubators: These provide stable temperatures and humidity levels. They’re the easiest but most expensive option.
• DIY Incubators: You can make your own incubator, often from plastic storage tubs. While cheaper, these take more effort to set up and maintain proper conditions.
• In the Gecko Enclosure: Letting the female incubate the eggs in her tank seems natural, but temperatures and humidity fluctuate which can jeopardize the eggs. It’s best to remove the eggs.

Monitoring the Temperature

No matter where you incubate the eggs, monitoring the temperatures is vital. Use a reliable digital thermometer with a probe to track the incubator temperatures. Position the probe right alongside the eggs.

Check the temps at least twice a day – once in the morning and once later in the day. Make any adjustments needed to keep the temperature in that 82-88°F window. Logging the temps each day also lets you ensure stability.

Incubation Duration

At proper incubation temperatures, leopard gecko eggs will hatch after 45-60 days of incubation. Lower temperatures extend incubation, while higher temperatures shorten it. But again, it’s healthiest for hatchlings when incubation lasts 50-60 days at ideal temps.

The Role of Humidity

Humidity levels affect how well the egg shells can “breathe” and release moisture. The right balance helps keep enough moisture inside the egg for development. Recommended humidity levels are between 40-60% during leopard gecko egg incubation.

Hatching Out Baby Leopard Geckos

Toward the end of incubation, the eggs may indent slightly as the hatchlings prepare to emerge. Avoid touching or disturbing the eggs at this point. When they’re ready, the geckos will slit around the egg shell from the inside using their egg tooth.

It’s an amazing process to witness! The little geckos often rest after pipping the shell before completing the exit. The entire hatching process can take 12-48 hours from the initial pip. Don’t interfere unless the hatchling seems to be having serious difficulties emerging.

Caring for Hatchlings

Once out of the egg, leopard gecko hatchlings stay inside the incubator for 24-48 more hours absorbing the last of their yolk sack for needed nutrients. After that, they’re ready for their first shed and to start feeding. They’ll need very small live feeder insects.

It’s ideal to house hatchlings together at first. But monitor them closely for any signs of aggression or dominance issues. Be prepared to separate any geckos not thriving together. With good care and proper setups, hatchling leopard geckos grow rapidly in their first 12 months.

Incubation Problems and Troubleshooting

Even with excellent incubator conditions, issues occasionally occur during leopard gecko egg incubation:

Non-Viable Eggs Not every egg is fertile and develops an embryo. Clear or misshapen eggs typically won’t hatch. These should be removed promptly from the incubator so they don’t rot and risk contaminating healthy eggs.

Fungal Infections Small gray or black dots on eggs likely indicate fungal growth. While not uncommon, fungus can spread quickly in the warm, humid incubator. Remove any eggs showing substantial fungus right away.

Hatchling Defects Minor physical defects sometimes show up in hatchlings, like missing toes or tail kinks. More severe issues like exposed organs, missing eyes, and undersized heads typically mean non-survival. Defects often result from poor incubation temperatures or genetics.

Stuck Hatchlings If a baby leopard gecko struggles for over 24 hours to fully exit the egg, it may be stuck. At that point, you can carefully assist by softly massaging the egg shell or gently tugging membrane. But take care not to damage delicate bones or tissues.

The Right Start for Healthy Gecko Babies

Caring for developing leopard gecko eggs comes with big responsibility. But the rewards of helping hatch gorgeous, healthy hatchlings makes the effort well worth it! Monitoring incubation temperatures closely and consistently gives every gecko egg its best opportunity to hatch out successfully.

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