Introduction to skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos

Abnormal skin shedding is commonly seen in Leopard geckos and is called dysecdysis^(32)(54).

Leopard geckos shed the outer parts of their skin as they grow⁽³²⁾. Skin shedding (also called ecdysis⁽⁵⁴⁾, moulting⁽⁵⁴⁾ or sloughing⁽⁵⁴⁾) is seen from time to time and is more frequent in baby and juvenile Leopard geckos.

Old skin is typically sloughed every 10 to 14 days in baby and juvenile Leopard geckos and every 4 to 8⁽³²⁾ weeks in adults. During the shedding process, the skin will turn dull⁽⁵⁷⁾ (white to grey) after which pieces will start to become loose and peel off.

Leopard geckos will often eat their sloughed skins^(32)(54).

Unlike some other lizards, Leopard geckos will often shed their skin in one complete piece⁽⁵⁴⁾, but shedding can also happen in a couple of large pieces. The active skin shedding process will take place over a short period of time (one to two hours in Leopard geckos⁽³²⁾).

By keeping records, normal patterns, frequencies and durations of a Leopard gecko’s skin sheddings can be monitored for abnormalities.

Also see
Leopard gecko skin shedding — an ‘a pealing’ affair
Skin eating behaviour in Leopard geckos

Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos (dysecdysis)

There are various reasons for Leopard geckos not to shed their skins normally.

In the author’s experience, most shedding problems in Leopard geckos are due to incorrect husbandry (mainly environmental humidity and temperature). Other contributing factors include health problems (such as skin infections and hypovitaminosis A), skin parasites, stress, injuries and excessive handling during the shedding period.

By knowing what normal skin shedding looks like, abnormal or difficult skin shedding can be identified.

Also see
Handling a Leopard gecko

Signs of abnormal skin shedding

Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos is evident by one or more of the following:

• Prolonged skin shedding (i.e. taking longer than a couple of hours for the entire skin to come off)
• Partial shedding (i.e. the skin is peeling off in multiple small pieces and some pieces still stay behind on the body)
• Prolonged periods between one skin shed to the next

Environmental problems

Environmental problems leading to abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos include incorrect humidities and temperatures⁽⁶²⁾ and are often due to incorrect husbandry. Ambient temperature and humidity are also reported in the literature to possibly have an effect on the frequency of ecdysis⁽⁵⁵⁾.

Humidity

The humidity is probably the most frequently reported reason for skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos. A low humidity (i.e. a too dry environment) prevents old skin from loosening properly, leading to pieces remaining stuck on the body⁽³⁰⁾.

In cases where the humidity is too low, Leopard geckos will often struggle with prolonged and partial skin shedding. It is often observed by Leopard geckos spending more time soaking in their water dishes.

To overcome most humidity-related problems, one or more humidifying shelters need to be supplied⁽³⁰⁾. Humidifying shelters can be commercial or home-made and is usually in the form of an enclosed hide box with a moist substrate.

Zoo Med has an all-natural, sustainably harvested Sphagnum moss that contains no dyes or chemicals. Sphagnum moss is ideal to use as a substrate for humidifying shelters. Available from Amazon.com

Also see
Leopard gecko hide areas and hide boxes
Leopard gecko soaking — warning signs

Temperature

Leopard geckos will thrive in temperatures of 25–30 ºC / 77–86 ºF⁽²³⁾ with a drop to room temperature during the evenings. Temperatures can be measured using a thermometer.

When the environmental temperature is too low, it can lead to chronic stress, retarded growth and diseases. Too high temperatures will have a decreasing effect on the environmental humidity and can also be seen as Leopard geckos spending more time soaking in their water bowls.

Also see
Supplying heat to pet Leopard geckos

The frequency of normal skin shedding in Leopard geckos is mainly dependant on factors such as growth rate, the season, hibernation (brumation), mating⁽⁵⁴⁾ and nutritional status.

Additional factors contributing to the frequency of normal skin shedding in Leopard geckos include the reproductive status, parasite load, hormonal balance and infection with bacterial or other skin pathogens⁽⁵⁵⁾.

Malnourishment

Malnourished Leopard geckos will show prolonged skin shedding and prolonged periods between sheds. The nutritional status will be dependant on correct feeding and the health status of the Leopard gecko.

It was observed medically by some authors that severely malnourished lizards appear to have very difficult and irregular sloughs⁽⁵⁵⁾. This might be due to the fact that hypoproteinemic animals are unable to produce the full complement of enzymes necessary to complete the breakdown between new and old skin⁽⁵⁵⁾.

Hypovitaminosis A

Vitamin A deficiency has been reported to contribute to dysecdysis in Leopard geckos^(30)(32)(62). Apart from problematic sheds, a deficiency in vitamin A also leads to other eye-related problems such as keratitis, conjunctivitis, blepharitis, and periocular abscesses. Chronic cases can result in dry eye with subsequent corneal scarring and blindness⁽³⁰⁾.

Crickets are unable to store vitamin A making Leopard geckos sustained on a non-gut-loaded, non-supplemented diet of crickets prone to develop this condition. Hypovitaminosis A results in squamous metaplasia of epithelium, which reduces fluid secretion by the skin and affects the separation of the old and new layers⁽³²⁾.

Note that it is also easy to overdose Leopard geckos with vitamin A, which leads to iatrogenic skin pathology. Gradual replenishment of vitamin A stores using the correct nutrition and long-term low dose oral supplementation is the safest treatment of hypovitaminosis A⁽³²⁾.

Complications of dysecdysis

Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos is associated with many potential problems. A major problem includes the constriction of toes, parts of the tail, legs and feet⁽³²⁾. Unslaughed skin that remains in these areas has a restriction effect (almost like a tourniquet) due to the expansion of the area underneath.

Areas/extremities distal to constrictions are deprived of normal blood flow and are ultimately at risk for avascular necrosis⁽³²⁾ and detachment if not treated.

Leopard gecko foot missing multiple toes due to skin constrictions and avascular necrosis secondary to dysecdysis. Image © Renier Delport

Another complication due to dysecdysis in Leopard geckos is secondary skin, mouth and eye infections⁽³²⁾. Retained skin can serve as growing sites for various types of fungi and bacteria⁽³²⁾. When the areas around the eyes are affected, keratitis and conjunctivitis are commonly seen⁽³²⁾.

Treating skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos

The treatment of Leopard gecko shedding problems is threefold:

• remove the remaining skin
• treat the underlying cause
• treat the complications

In Leopard geckos, dysecdysis is almost always the consequence of other problems. Identifying these problems is often more important than identifying the shedding problem itself.

Immediate home management includes increasing the humidity by either increasing the size of the water bowl and/or adding a hide box with a moist substrate (aka humidifying shelter).

Starting when the skin turns dull, the shedding process of Leopard geckos can also be helped by daily gentle misting of the enclosure and daily lukewarm baths in a shallow container. The water temperature used for bathing/soaking and misting should be in the desired temperature range of Leopard geckos (25–30 ºC / 77–86 ºF⁽²³⁾). A thermometer can be used to measure the temperature of the water.

Also see
Leopard gecko hide areas and hide boxes
Leopard gecko thermometers
Correct humidity for Leopard geckos

If the shedding problems persist, reoccurs and/or there are already pieces of skin stuck to the body, professional help is indicated. Leopard geckos with persistent shedding problems should be evaluated by a reptile friendly veterinarian.

In the case where pieces of skin are stuck around the toes, feet or tail it can be removed by soaking the affected area in lukewarm warm water and gently teasing loose fragments away with damp cotton buds and atraumatic forceps⁽³²⁾. Pieces around the eyes can also be removed this way, but these areas often require additional medicines against eye infections⁽³²⁾.

Hypovitaminosis A is treated by 0.01 mL of vitamin A/D (500 000 IU/ml vitamin A) SC, repeated in two weeks. The diet should also be corrected⁽³⁰⁾.

Conclusion

Although the most common reason for skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos is often the result of incorrect husbandry, other, even more, serious factors can play a role. In persistent cases where potential environmental problems have been resolved, professional help is indicated.

References

Cited references

URL links

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Introduction to Leopard gecko mites

Mites are small arthropods belonging to the class Arachnida (the same class as spiders) and, together with ticks, to the subclass Acari. They are eight-legged organisms that inhabit the outside skin of many reptile species.

These tiny (only up to a few millimetres in length) parasites attach themselves to their host and bore through the skin. Most of them are haematophagous — meaning that they suck blood. Although having a symbiotic relationship with some reptile species, their presence can result in significant blood loss, loss of appetite a weakened immune system and various degrees of skin irritations.

Mites can also transmit diseases from one host to another and affect the overall health and appearance of reptiles.

Mite infestations in reptiles

With more than 250 different mite species that can infest reptiles, there are only a couple of ones that are worth mentioning. They are the snake mite (Ophionyssus natricis), the common lizard mite (Hirstiella trombidiformis) and the larvae of the trombiculid mite (also known as chiggers). Snake mites (the most common of them all) can infest lizards and lizard mites can infest snakes.

Snake mites, lizard mites and chiggers survive by sucking the blood of reptiles.

Although mites are commonly found in wild reptiles, they can cause severe problems in pet reptiles. Because of stress and the space limitations of reptile enclosures (when compared with the open spaces of the wilderness), mites tend to proliferate and concentrate more on pet reptiles.

Mite infestations are more commonly a problem in unhygienic enclosures, where poor husbandry is practised, with recent acquisitions and/or (wild-caught) imports.

Mites can also infest pet Leopard geckos. Apart from seeing the mites, signs of mite infestations in Leopard geckos include:

• damaged skin
• excessive soaking behaviour
• loss of appetite
• weight loss / poor body condition
• skin shedding problems (dysecdysis)
• the build-up of white dust at the bottom of the enclosure

Mite infestations are usually quite obvious. While still on the animal, they are often seen with the naked eye or better, under magnification. Depending on the gender and age, snake mites are either black or tan.

Lizard mites and chiggers are usually red to orange in colour. When present, non-attached mites can often be seen as little moving specs on the skin of Leopard geckos. Attached ones can be found around the eyelid folds, ear openings, axillae, cloacal area (the vent) and other skin folds. Drowned mites are also often seen in the affected animal’s water container.

Affected skin, often areas surrounding the joints, may result in hyperpigmentation (‘black’ dermatitis), hence the name ‘black skin disease’.

Excessive soaking behaviour, loss of appetite, poor body condition and skin shedding problems also warrants a proper, close-up inspection for mites.

Also see
Skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos
Leopard gecko soaking — warning signs

Origin of mites

Mites will breed and lay eggs in small cracks and crevices. Once they have established themselves, they will quickly spread to other enclosures and other animals. They also spread easily from one Leopard gecko to another.

Mites commonly enter an enclosure or collection attached on newly acquired reptiles that have not been quarantined properly. Facilities that are unhygienic and dirty and collections containing imported and/or wild-caught reptiles are more likely to be affected by mites.

The best way to prevent a mite infestation is by preventing it from entering a collection in the first place. This is done by purchasing healthy-looking Leopard geckos from reputable breeders with clean, mite-free facilities, avoiding wild-caught Leopard geckos and by quarantine.

Because mites might not be evident at first (especially in milder cases), all newly acquired Leopard geckos should be quarantined until they are mite-free for at least 6 weeks. To include the identification of other Leopard gecko diseases, the quarantine period should be at least 3 months.

Quarantine/isolation principles should also be applied for Leopard geckos that have been diagnosed with mite infestations (see Treatment of mite infestations in Leopard geckos below).

During the quarantine/isolation period, inspections should include close visualisation of the Leopard gecko’s skin, substrate and water container. The final quarantine inspection should preferably be done by a reptile-friendly veterinarian or herpetologist.

Also see
Leopard gecko quarantine: Why, how long?

Treatment of mites in Leopard geckos

To get rid of mites, affected Leopard geckos and their enclosures need to be treated. In severe infestations, the room where the Leopard geckos have been housed in and other reptile containers will also need to be treated for mites. Mites will often return when effective treatment was not done efficiently.

The first thing to do after mites have been spotted is to isolate the entire enclosure from the rest of a reptile collection. It should be assumed that everything inside the enclosure is infested with mites and/or contains mite eggs.

All affected Leopard geckos should be placed in separate, large enough, plastic containers with a paper-based substrate and as little enclosure furniture as possible. This will make it more difficult for mites to hide away and breed. The supply of food and mineral and vitamin supplements should continue as usual.

Mites can easily be identified in simple, minimalistic enclosures, e.g. during quarantine. It will be more difficult for mites to hide and breed in plastic containers and containers with paper substrates. Image Korean Gardener (CC BY YouTube)

Treating the environment

When they are not feeding, mites spend a lot of their time reproducing in away from their hosts — mainly in small, dark places like holes, cracks, crevices, under enclosure decoration/furniture and under the substrate.

Some mites can survive without a meal for up to 19 days before they will die from starvation. Even then, mite eggs can still hatch after adults have been eradicated. These factors make it very tricky to get rid of mite infestations.

After Leopard geckos have been removed, the entire enclosure and all its original furniture need to be cleaned out, treated for mites and properly disinfected. The enclosure should never be treated while there are still animals inside.

The original substrate should be removed and discarded in a plastic bag. Vacuuming, focussing on the corners and crevices, will help to remove mite eggs. The enclosure, enclosure furniture and equipment need to be cleaned to get rid of dirt. Normal soap and water can be used. The cleaning step might help drown some mites in the process.

After cleaning, all surfaces (including heat pads and lighting) need to be treated with an effective ascaricide (a group of chemical drugs that kills mites and ticks). Drenching will allow smaller cracks and crevices to be filled as well but fogging, sprays and powders are also often used.

Because most acaricides will only kill the adult stages of mites (and not the larvae and eggs), time needs to be given for eggs to hatch and larvae to turn into adults. For this reason, treatment needs to be done weekly for at least four (but up to six) consecutive weeks.

Effective ascaricides that can be used on contact surfaces include pyrethroids, pyrethrins, fipronil and carbamates. Products that are safe to use by humans and that are readily available include Frontline spray (fipronil) and F10 antiseptic spray with insecticide (synthetic pyrethrin).

After the treatment of mites (i.e. a couple of weeks down the line), the enclosure and enclosure furniture needs to be disinfected. Disinfection will not kill mites, but is more to kill potentially harmful organisms that may be spread around by the mites. By this time, all mites should be eradicated. To prevent any residing poison from affecting Leopard geckos, treated items should be properly washed, rinsed and ventilated before their return.

Other ways to kill mites in the environment include heat treatment (temperatures exceeding the 55 ºC / 131º F) and biocontrol. Early studies have shown that predatory mites (Stratiolaelaps scimitus – marketed as Hypoaspis miles and Stratiolaelaps eruditus) were effective in eradicating mite infestations and in various scenarios⁽²⁸⁾. Further investigation with this regard is still underway.

In severe cases, and/or where multiple reptiles are being housed in the same room, it is often indicated that the entire room gets treated. When this is the case, it is best to consult the services of pest control professionals.

Treating Leopard geckos with mites

Apart from treating the environment, mites that are still on the Leopard gecko also needs to be treated. Treatment should be done while a Leopard gecko is being isolated. Options include manual removal of mites, water baths, coating with oil, spraying, wiping, shampooing or dusting with ascaricides and the administration of antiparasitic medications (e.g. ivermectin). Debilitated Leopard geckos should be stabilised before treatment with ascaricides and antiparasitics are used.

The majority of treatment options include the use of chemotherapeutics (i.e. ascaricides, antiparasitic medication and antiseptics). Although they are considered necessary when dealing with a problematic condition such as mite infestations, their long term effects on reptiles (especially Leopard geckos) are not completely understood. Their use and safety should be considered on a per-patient basis.

Treatments such as water baths and manual removal of mites are relatively safe and can be attempted at home. When proven inefficient, individualised advice and treatment options can be obtained by consulting with a reptile-friendly veterinarian or herpetologist. They will also most likely be able to supply the correct treatment products.

Leopard geckos can be bathed/soaked once a day in chin-deep water for 30 minutes at a time⁽²³⁾. The water temperature needs to be similar to that of the enclosure (i.e. 25–30 ºC / 77–86 ºF⁽²³⁾, use a thermometer) and the soaking container must be deep enough to prevent escape. This will cause the mites to detach and drown. Care needs to be taken not to allow the head of the Leopard gecko to go below the level of the water.

Mites already on, or crawling to, the head of Leopard gecko can be manually removed by rinsing the head and neck and/or rubbing them with a cotton-tipped swab dipped in mineral oil. Some authors recommend adding povidone-iodine (e.g. Bethadine) to the bathwater to form a weak solution⁽²⁷⁾.

Bethadine will act as a topical antiseptic that will help to disinfect bite wounds. Bethadine or F10 Germicidal Barrier ointment can also be applied to open wounds with a cotton-tipped swab. If Bethadine has been added to the water, the Leopard gecko should be soaked afterwards in fresh water to rinse it off. Soaked/rinsed Leopard geckos should be dried before returned to their enclosures.

Although messy, mineral oil, olive oil or baby oil are popularly used to treat mites on Leopard geckos. Apart from being used with a cotton-tipped swop to remove mites manually, oils can also be applied as a coating.

Oil coating is a recommended way to treat small and delicate reptiles. Care must be taken not to get oil inside the Leopard gecko’s eyes. The oil layer needs to be washed off by bathing with a mild soap the next day and can be applied once a week⁽²³⁾.

Topical treatments in the form of spraying, wiping, shampooing and dusting Leopard geckos and other reptiles are also described.

Effective acaricides for this purpose include diluted concentrations of pyrethroids (e.g. 0.35% Resmethrin spray or shampoo and 10% Permethrin diluted to a 1% solution) and pyrethrins (e.g. 0.09% pyrethrin spray). Pyrethroids are safer to use than pyrethrins. Topical treatments might have to be repeated for 2 to 3 times allowing at least 10 days in between⁽²³⁾.

When using topical treatments caution must be taken during the skin shedding process. There seems to be an increased permeability of the skin during the growth and shedding phase. Snakes sprayed with anti-mite medications at this time appear much more susceptible to such toxins than those sprayed at other times⁽⁵⁵⁾.

Ivermectin (e.g. Ivomec) can also be used to kill attached mites on Leopard geckos. It is an antiparasitic medicine that can be given either per mouth or as an injection under the skin. It can also be used as an external contact spray or environmental spray by mixing it with water. Treatment should preferably be done under the guidance of a reptile-friendly veterinarian or herpetologist – which will also be able to help with the correct equipment, technique and obtaining the medicine. In addition to treating mites, ivermectin is also used to treat nematodes (roundworms) in some reptiles.

Treatment with ivermectin is done initially and then repeated after 2 weeks (0.2mg/kg)⁽²³⁾. In order to prevent, or reduce the incidence of skin discolouration at the injection site, oral formulations should be used, or injections can be diluted with propylene glycol. Ivermectin is used extra-labelly in reptiles and side effects include lethargy, inappetence, nervous signs (occasionally) and death (rarely)⁽²³⁾.

To create a contact or environmental spray, 5-10 mg injectable ivermectin is added to one litre of water. It can be sprayed directly on the skin or the inside of the enclosure at intervals of 4 to 5 days for up to 28 days⁽²³⁾.

Conclusion

Mite infestations in Leopard geckos are often seen in collections which came in contact with wild reptiles and unhygienic facilities. Mites can be eradicated, but it is tricky to do so.

The post Mite infestations in Leopard geckos appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

As with other reptiles, Leopard geckos go through multiple skin sheds throughout their lives. Unlike most other reptiles, they also eat their shed skins. Read article

The post Leopard Gecko ceratophagia appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Introduction to skin shedding in Leopard geckos

For reptiles, shedding the outer parts of their skins are normal⁽⁵⁴⁾. Initially, the skin will turn white to grey (dull⁽⁵⁷⁾) after which pieces will start to become loose and peel off. Having eyelids, the skin covering the eyes does not typically turn dull. The old skin often comes off as one complete piece, leaving a new, larger, and brighter layer of skin behind.

Shedding in reptiles functions as the replacement of old, worn skin and helps to get rid of external parasites (mites and ticks)⁽⁵⁴⁾. The skin shedding process is also called ecdysis⁽⁵⁴⁾, moulting⁽⁵⁴⁾ or sloughing and the sloughed skin can also be referred to as the slough⁽⁵⁴⁾.

Skin shedding is a physiological process where the old skin is removed to give way for a newer, usually larger one. It is controlled by the thyroid gland⁽⁵⁴⁾. Reptile skin consists of multiple layers and it is only the outer, dry part of the skin (called the superficial epidermis or cornified layer) that gets moulted.

Before the old layer is moulted, a new layer is already formed underneath. When its time to shed, fluid, lymph, red blood cells and enzymes are secreted that encourage separation of the outermost layer from the, still growing, inner layers⁽⁵⁴⁾.

Skin shedding in Leopard geckos

Unlike some other, shorter lizards⁽⁵⁴⁾, Leopard geckos will often shed their skin in one complete piece⁽⁵⁴⁾. Shedding can also happen in a couple of large pieces. The old skin breaks near the mouth and in many cases, the cast skin peels backwards over the body from head to tail. The active skin shedding process will take place over a short period of time (usually one to two hours in Leopard geckos⁽³²⁾).

Often, old skin is eaten by the Leopard gecko^(32)(59)(62) and shedding will take place at night — thus the process is easily missed⁽³⁰⁾.

An adult Leopard gecko in the process of shedding its skin, and eating it. In this case, the skin is actively peeled off by biting and pulling on the old skin using its mouth. Image NATURE CLIPS (CC BY YouTube)

Frequency pf skin shedding and growth rate

Baby and juvenile Leopard geckos grow faster meaning they will shed their skins more frequently than adults — typically every 10⁽³²⁾ to 14 days. The growth rate will depend on factors such as the amount of food given, the environmental temperature, health status and the genes of the Leopard gecko.

Adult Leopard geckos will shed approximately every 4 to 8⁽³²⁾ weeks. Skin shedding is often an indication that a Leopard gecko is healthy and growing. Pet Leopard geckos tend to shed more often than wild Leopard geckos.

Other than the growth rate, the frequency of skin sloughing also depends on factors such as the season, hibernation (brumation), mating⁽⁵⁴⁾. The state of nutrition, reproductive status, parasite load, hormonal balance, infection with bacterial or other skin pathogens, ambient temperature, and humidity may also have an effect on the frequency of ecdysis⁽⁵⁵⁾.

Owners can keep records of the patterns, frequencies and durations of a Leopard gecko’s skin sheddings. Records will help to predict the frequency of sheddings and can be used to monitor for abnormalities.

Also see
What to look for in a healthy Leopard gecko
Correct humidity for pet Leopard geckos

While shedding, Leopard geckos will often change their behaviour. Normal behavioural changes before, during and after the shedding process include:

During shedding, Leopard geckos are often seen rubbing their face and body against the sides of the enclosure, enclosure furniture and the floor. Some will also be seen biting at their legs and at loose pieces of skin.

To what is believed to aid in the shedding process, Leopard geckos will often be seen eating their sheds^(32)(59).

During the shedding process, Leopard geckos will often rub against rough surfaces of the terrarium. This is to start the shedding process by creating ‘peeling areas’. Image Lalji Shiyani (CC BY YouTube)

During the shedding process, Leopard geckos may spend more time in their humidifying shelters hiding away or moving to safe places. It is not uncommon for Leopard geckos to refuse to eat or eat less before and during the shedding process⁽⁵⁴⁾.

Anorexia (unwillingness to eat) might even start days before the old skin is to be shed⁽⁵⁴⁾. This is likely due to the sensitivity of the new/fresh skin and the restricting nature of the old skin — making it more difficult to move around.

Leopard geckos might also be seen soaking in their water dishes during the shedding process — especially when it is problematic. By keeping the old skin moist, it will separate more easily from the body.

Also see
Leopard gecko soaking — warning signs
Skin eating behaviour in Leopard geckos

Helping Leopard geckos during skin shedding

For pet Leopard geckos, skin shedding comes with a lot of potential problems and challenges. Skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos (dysecdysis) are frequently seen.

Major contributing factors include a too low environmental humidity⁽⁵⁴⁾, low temperatures, improper nutrition and insufficient enclosure furniture for rubbing⁽⁵⁵⁾. One of the most important things that will aid in normal skin shedding in Leopard geckos is the supply of a humidifying shelter (hide box containing a moist substrate).

A correctly set up hide box will most often be enough to supply all the required humidity and will also double as a place to hide during this fragile period. Popular hide box substrates include peat/sphagnum moss⁽³⁴⁾ and vermiculite⁽³⁰⁾ that is wetted with an equal amount of water. Sprayed paper towel can also be used. The substrate should not be soggy wet but feel moist by touching it.

Other than supplying a humidifying shelter, other quick ways to increase the environmental humidity is by increasing the size of the water bowl and by misting the enclosure. Some Leopard geckos might soak more frequently in their water containers during the skin shedding process.

Twice a day misting (i.e. spraying) with lukewarm water will aid in increasing the overall environmental humidity during this period. The temperature of the spraying water needs to be similar to that of the enclosure (i.e. 25–30 ºC / 77–86 ºF⁽²³⁾, use a thermometer).

It was observed medically by some authors that severely malnourished lizards appear to have very difficult and irregular sloughs⁽⁵⁵⁾.

Items such as logs, rocks and pieces of dry wood can be used to create areas for rubbing.

Also see
Skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos
Leopard gecko hide areas and hide boxes
Ensuring the correct humidity for pet Leopard geckos
Suitable substrates for Leopard geckos

Handling Leopard geckos during skin shedding

Fresh skin is still fragile and more sensitive than the old one. It is therefore encouraged to keep handling to an as-needed basis while a Leopard gecko is in the process of shedding. Handling should be restricted up to a couple of days after the shedding process has finished.

Also see
Handling a Leopard gecko

Conclusion

Owners often see their Leopard geckos shedding its skin. It is normal in reptiles. While a Leopard gecko is shedding its skin, certain behaviours can be expected and there are various things owners can do to ease the process.

The post Leopard Gecko Skin shedding and a peeling affair appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Cryptosporidiosis is caused by a protozoal parasite named Cryptosporidium. Although there are many different types (or species), the one that is most often associated with disease in Leopard geckos is Cryptosporidium serrpentis. It is very infectious and is easily transmitted from one Leopard gecko to another through contact with infected faeces. Due to its small size (often too small to see under a microscope), Cryptosporidiosis is difficult to diagnose without advanced testing and it often goes undiagnosed.

Cryptosporidium infections can either be subclinical (where there is no signs of disease) or clinical with devastating signs. Even if a Leopard gecko does not seem to be sick, the parasite can still be transmitted to others. Clinically sick Leopard geckos generally refuse to eat (or eats less), vomit food, lose weight and start to pass undigested food. Because a Leopard gecko’s tail stores fat reserves, thinning of the tail is very often among the first signs observed (also called ‘stick-tail’). If any of these signs are observed, the Leopard gecko should be isolated/quarantined from other Leopard geckos and be seen to by an experienced veterinarian.

Diagnosis and treatment of Cryptosporidiosis is best done under the guidance of a reptile friendly veterinarian. Sputum or faeces are used to make a definitive diagnosis of the Cryptosporidium parasite. Other causes/diseases that can have similar clinical signs might also be investigated. Hospitalisation and supportive treatment are often indicated during the time a diagnosis is made.

Up to date, there is no completely effective medication to rid Leopard geckos from Cryptosporidium parasites – even if a positive diagnosis is made. Some treatments will suppress the parasite, but clinical signs will likely return soon after the medication is stopped. Leopard geckos with Cryptosporidiosis should be quarantined permanently and should not be used for breeding. Due to its devastating effects, infectious nature and inability to cure, many Leopard gecko owners decide to euthanise positively identified individuals.

The post Cryptosporidiosis in Leopard geckos appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

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Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos (also known as dysecdysis) is usually an indication that something else is wrong. This post discusses what abnormal skin shedding look like in Leopard geckos and point out its most common reasons.

Leopard geckos shed the outer parts of their skin as they grow. Skin shedding (also called ecdysis or moulting) is seen from time to time and is more frequent in baby and juvenile Leopard geckos.

Normal skin shedding in Leopard geckos

During the shedding process, the skin will turn white to grey after which pieces will start to become loose and peel off. Normally, Leopard geckos will shed their skins in one, large, complete piece. It is also normal for Leopard geckos to eat their sloughed skins in the process. The frequency at which Leopard geckos shed their skins is more or less dependant on the rate at which they grow. Adult Leopard geckos will shed approximately every 4 to 5 weeks and the skin shedding process should take a couple of hours at most. Also see Leopard gecko skin shedding for more information.

Normal behavioural changes before, during and after the shedding process include the following:

• Agitation, sometimes leading to biting behaviour
• Lethargy in the form of moving slower, or moving less
• Hiding and spending more time in the hide box
• Anorexia (no or reduced appetite)
• Soaking in the water dish (also see soaking behaviour in Leopard geckos for more information).

By keeping records, normal patterns, frequencies and durations of your own Leopard gecko’s skin sheddings can be archived and monitored for abnormalities.

Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos

Abnormal skin shedding (dysecdysis) in Leopard geckos is evident by one or more of the following:

• Prolonged skin shedding (taking more than a day or two from when skin peeling starts)
• Partial shedding, i.e. the skin is peeling off in multiple small pieces and some pieces still stay behind on the body.
• Prolonged periods between one skin shed to the next
• Excessive time spent in the water container

Skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos can be due to various factors. Most shedding problems occur when there is a deviation in the main environmental factors. Other contributing factors include age, skin infections, Leopard gecko parasites, stress, injuries and excessive handling during the shedding period.  Abnormal skin shedding is also often the result of health problems such as hypovitaminosis A.

Common environmental reasons for dysecdysis include incorrect temperatures and wrong humidities. Leopard geckos will thrive in temperatures of 25 – 32 ºC / 77 – 90 ºF with a drop to room temperature during the evenings. Temperatures can be measured using a thermometer. When the environmental temperature is too low, it can lead to chronic stress, retarded growth and diseases. The humidity is probably the single factor leading to most Leopard gecko shedding problems. A low humidity (i.e. a too dry environment) prevents old skin from loosening properly, leading to pieces remaining stuck on the body.

Potential complications from shedding problems

Abnormal skin shedding in Leopard geckos does not go without potential problems. A major problem includes the constriction of toes, parts of the tail, legs and feet. Unslaughed skin that remains in these areas has a restriction effect (almost like a tourniquet) due to the expansion of the area underneath. Areas/extremities distal to constrictions are deprived of normal blood flow and are ultimately at risk for tissue necrosis and detachment.

Leopard gecko foot missing multiple toes due to skin constrictions.

Another complication due to dysecdysis in Leopard geckos is secondary skin, mouth and eye infections. Retained skin can serve as growing sites for various bacteria.

How to treat skin shedding problems in Leopard geckos

In Leopard geckos, dysecdysis is almost always the consequence of other problems. Identifying these problems is often more important than identifying the shedding problem itself.

Immediate home management includes increasing the humidity by either increasing the size of the water bowl and/or adding a hide box with a moist substrate. If you already have a hide box, make sure that the substrate is fresh and moist. Starting when the skin turns dull, the shedding process of Leopard geckos can also be helped by daily gentle misting of the enclosure and daily lukewarm baths in a shallow container. If the shedding problems persist, reoccurs and/or there are already pieces of skin stuck to the body, professional help is indicated.

Leopard geckos with shedding problems should be evaluated by a reptile friendly veterinarian. The treatment of Leopard gecko shedding problems is threefold, namely to remove the remaining skin, to treat the underlying cause and to treat the complications.

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Introduction to intestinal impactions and obstructions of Leopard geckos

An intestinal impaction is where the intestines get filled up. This prevents food from passing, ultimately leading to intestinal obstruction (or a blockage). It results in pain, inability to pass stool, dehydration and a state of shock. When an obstruction is not rectified in due time, the condition can cause permanent damage to the intestines or even lead to death.

Apart from sand impactions, intestinal obstructions in Leopard geckos can also be caused by faecal impactions and foreign body obstructions⁽⁶²⁾ (e.g. by ingesting large pieces of the substrate), urate masses, neoplasias and non-neoplastic masses. Foreign body obstructions are considered common in Leopard geckos⁽⁶²⁾.

In theory, sand and any particulate substrate that is small enough and undigestible can be ingested and cause an intestinal obstruction⁽³²⁾. In the case of faecal impactions, the food was either indigestible or, more likely, the intestines were not able to contract properly. Impactions can also be indicative of chronic (long term) dehydration⁽⁴²⁾.

Intestinal impactions and obstructions in Leopard geckos are important and often complicated conditions to know about. This is an extensive article discussing sand impactions and their prevention in Leopard geckos, foreign body obstructions, faecal impactions, other causes of impactions and obstructions in Leopard geckos, diagnostics and treatment of impactions and obstructions in Leopard geckos, nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism and choosing the best substrates for Leopard geckos.

Intestinal impactions and obstructions often lead to, the so-called, wasting syndrome where affected Leopard geckos lose weight and/or stop growing. Common signs in Leopard geckos include anorexia (not eating well or eating at all), lethargy (reduced activity), weight loss (e.g. tail getting thinner), a bloated abdomen, darkened intestines (visible from the belly area) and cloacal eversion⁽³⁰⁾. The abdominal (belly) area is often hard, or something hard in the form of a tube can be palpated (felt with fingers and hands).

Leopard geckos with obstructions are unable to defecate (pass stool). A Leopard gecko should be passing stool at least once a day. Observant owners will be able to identify a potential obstruction early on by looking at the frequency of defaecating (pooping). Regurgitation, dehydration (seen as a wrinkly skin) and cloacal or colonic prolapse are also be seen in some cases.

Diagnostics and treatment of impactions and obstructions in Leopard geckos are best done under the guidance of a reptile-friendly veterinarian.

Sand impactions in Leopard geckos

Sand impactions are commonly seen in pet Leopard geckos. When sand is ingested and not excreted, it will start to build up and fill the intestines — ultimately leading to a blockage. Whether Leopard geckos need sand in their diets, and how much, is uncertain. It is also not exactly known whether Leopard geckos in the wild eat sand or not, but they are commonly seen doing so in captivity.

Pet Leopard geckos will often eat sand (called geophagia), especially when they suffer from certain mineral deficiencies (then called pica). Leopard geckos with sand impactions are also often seen drinking more water and soaking in their water dish.

Risk factors associated with sand impactions in Leopard geckos include:

• Being kept on sand
• Seeing eating sand
• Seeing sand in the faeces
• Inadequate calcium/vitamin D₃ supplementation
• Being smaller (

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Bite injuries in Leopard geckos are commonly seen as tail wounds (or the entire tail falling off), neck wounds, leg and toe wounds, eye wounds and lip wounds.

Tail wounds in Leopard geckos

Tail wounds from biting are more frequently seen when different sized Leopard geckos are housed together, where too many babies or juvenile Leopard geckos are housed together (overcrowding) or during breeding (see later). Feeding frenzies often result in (larger) Leopard geckos snapping and biting anything that moves, which often includes moving tails of other Leopard geckos. Feeding frenzies can also result in human bites. Also see tail injuries in Leopard geckos for more information.

Neck & lip-biting injuries

Neck biting is usually due to vigorous mating behaviour. During the breeding season, a male Leopard gecko will attempt to mate by biting onto the neck or lip area of a susceptible female. The incidence of these Leopard gecko bite injuries and wounds can be reduced by introducing more females to the group or to allow proper rest periods for females during the breeding season. Pairing with a larger female might also reduce injuries from a large male.

Male Leopard gecko biting a female during courtship. Injuries from mating will often be seen on the neck of female Leopard geckos. Image 정브르 (CC BY YouTube)

Male dominance

Male dominance, or territorial behaviour in Leopard geckos can also be seen by biting injuries. During the breeding season, or less often during other times too, male Leopard geckos become territorial and aggressive towards each other. Fiting will lead to tail wounds, lip wounds, leg and toe wounds, eye wounds and wounds in any other area that can be bitten. Adult males will often fight for the ability to mate with females. It is not advised to keep more than one male Leopard gecko per colony.

Leopard gecko eye wounds

Leopard gecko eye wounds can be seen with bites to the head. Although eye wounds are rare, they can be quite serious and can result in impairment of vision, eye infections and even the loss of an eye. These injuries should be treated under the guidance of an experienced reptile veterinarian.

Leg and toe bite wounds

Although leg and toe wounds are more often seen as a result of shedding problems, bite wounds to these areas can also be seen from time to time. As mentioned earlier, leg and toe bite wounds can be due to fighting or feeding frenzies in Leopard geckos.

Treating bite injuries in Leopard geckos

Most Leopard gecko bite wounds will need little intervention from the owner, except when bleeding cannot be controlled or when swelling and infection sets in. The incidence of infection can be reduced by applying antiseptic ointment or starting a course of prophylactic antibiotics, available upon clinical examination by a reptile friendly veterinarian.

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Leopard geckos are known to suffer tail injuries from time to time. This article will tell owners how the injury might have happened, what do to and what to expect when your Leopard gecko has a tail injury.

The tail is the prolonged section extending past the attachment of the back legs. In Leopard geckos, the tail is partially flexible and its main purpose is to store fats and to aid in communication with other Leopard geckos. The innermost structure of the tail consists of vertebrae (called the caudal vertebrae) which is an extension of the spinal cord. The tails of Leopard geckos can also act as a protection mechanism by being expelled in the case of danger.

Image Jessi Swick (CC BY 2.0)

Leopard gecko tail injuries

The tails of Leopard geckos are can be injured in a couple of ways. Although tail injuries in Leopard geckos are not frequently seen and/or is not frequently a major problem, preventative and management measures could aid in minimising the risk for complications.

A Leopard gecko’s tail can be injured in one or more of the following ways:

Many tail injuries in Leopard geckos will result in the loss of the tail (see below). The entire tail, or only a part thereof, can break off. Fortunately, when this happens, the tails of Leopard geckos are designed to withstand serious complications such as infections, pain and severe blood loss. In many cases, the tail will grow back (see later).

Leopard gecko tail drop

Tail dropping in Leopard geckos (also known as autotomy) is when the tail is cast off in the case of danger (e.g. in the case of being chased/attacked by a predator). Autotomy is a natural protection mechanism for Leopard geckos. Although this probably happens more frequently as a result of a physical insult on the tail itself (e.g. the tail being grabbed or bitten), Leopard geckos can spontaneously drop their tails too.

A Leopard gecko’s tail has fracture points and muscles that connect the tail with the spine. Fracture points have weaker connections between them and will break more easily than the rest of the spine. This allows the tail to break more easily in certain areas with less trauma and consequences.

When in danger, the tail muscles will contract which cause enough pressure for the closest fracture point to separate – causing the tail to fall off at that point. After a Leopard gecko dropped its tail, the constriction of the muscles will restrict blood loss and fold over the exposed spinal area to serve as protection.

First aid for Leopard Geckos tail injuries

Although doing nothing will often yield similar results, there are a few things Leopard gecko owners can do in the case where the tail has been injured and/or has broken off. The main aim during this period is to stop the bleeding, prevent infection and to allow the Leopard gecko to rest while recovering.

1. The first thing to do in the case of a Leopard gecko tail injury is to separate/isolate it from cage mates. It is best to transfer the injured Leopard gecko to a clean, separate enclosure.
2. In the rare cases where there is still active bleeding shortly after the injury has happened, light pressure can be applied using clean non-sticking cotton wool or wound dressing. Pressure should be applied until the bleeding has stopped. Urgently consult with a reptile friendly veterinarian if the bleeding doesn’t stop after a couple of minutes.
3. Allow the injured Leopard gecko to rest. Reduce handling to a minimum.

Recovering from tail injuries

A Leopard gecko will take about 2 months to fully recover from a tail injury. By this time, the tail should be starting to grow back. After healing of the wound has taken place (seen as the formation of a knob within 3 to 4 weeks after the injury), the tail tissue will start to enlarge and grow into more or less the old tail structure. Some tails will be shorter than the original one. After the injured tail has grown back, a fairly distinctive line will be visible where the tail has broken off. The original bony vertebrae will grow back in the form of cartilage.

After the tail has grown back, one can often see the line where the tail fracture occurred.

During the recovery period, injured Leopard geckos should be handled as little as possible. Also see the correct handling of Leopard geckos for more information. Handling should be restricted to moving between containers for cleaning purposes and too quick, close inspections.

The ‘isolation’ enclosure should be cleaned and disinfected frequently. Droppings should be removed daily. The best substrates to use in isolation enclosures are news- or brown butcher paper. Also see suitable substrates to be used for Leopard geckos for more information. To reduce the risk for infection even further, the enclosure should be disinfected with a disinfectant that is safe to be used in Leopard geckos.

F10 has a wide range of products including wipes, hand soaps, sprays and contact cleaners that is safe and effective to use with Leopard geckos. F10 products are available from certain veterinary clinics and hospitals.

For a Leopard gecko not having a tail means not having additional fat reserves. As the tail grows back, the Leopard gecko needs to replenish its fat reserves. This makes it very important to feed an injured Leopard gecko every day and never skipping a day. During this period both foods high in protein (e.g. crickets and silkworms) and in fat (e.g. mealworms) should be offered. Also see feeding a Leopard gecko for more information.

During the recovery period, guidance from a reptile friendly veterinarian will always have benefits. A veterinarian can help prevent and address complications and can often help with additional medicines that might be needed.

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