Introduction

A terrarium is a type of vivarium that is used to keep desert animals in. The enclosure can be of any type or size. The correct size terrarium can house one or a couple of Leopard geckos. Other than serving as a housing enclosure, its purpose is often to create an aesthetically pleasing area to view, and will thus have at least one side covered with glass. Creating a savannah or desert-themed environment will not only add environmental enrichment for Leopard geckos, but also stimulate their natural behaviours and make viewing a pleasure.

There are endless possibilities when it comes to creating a Leopard gecko terrarium. After choosing the right enclosure, the ventilation, lighting, substrate, accessories (hide areas and other enclosure furniture) and the heating needs to be selected. Many keepers make their own enclosures and accessories, but commercial containers and accessories are also readily available from online shops (e.g. Amazon.com), pet shops and general hardware stores.

Also see
Natural distribution and habitat of Leopard geckos

Terrarium types and sizes

The first thing to consider when it comes to making a Leopard gecko terrarium is the type of enclosure and its size. Leopard geckos are ground-dwelling and are not known to climb vertical surfaces. For this reason, flatter, low roofed enclosures with a large floor surface are preferred over taller ones. The floor surface should be large enough to house the respective amount of Leopard geckos comfortably. A single Leopard gecko can be housed in an area with a floor surface as small as 30 x 30 cm / 12 x 12 “, but bigger is better to allow for more enclosure furniture and open spaces. Larger enclosures can also be heated more naturally (see later). One to three Leopard geckos can be housed together in an enclosure with a floor space of (61 x 23 x 33) cm / (24 x 9 x 13) “. The floor space should increase with at least 25% for every Leopard gecko added after that.

Popular terrarium enclosures used to house Leopard geckos include glass tanks, cabinets and large plastic storage containers. Commercial reptile or Leopard gecko terrarium enclosures, sold as ‘vivariums’ or ‘terrariums’, are also available.

Each type of terrarium enclosure has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

Glass tanks, mainly purposed for aquariums, are easy to obtain, easy to clean, has multiple open viewable sides and are fairly cheap these days. Because of their abundant availability, glass tanks are probably the most often used enclosure for Leopard geckos. One to three Leopard geckos can be housed together in a 20 gallon / 40 -50 ℓ tank. The lid can either be in the form of a plastic aquarium lid or a slidable screen lid. Because of their ‘openness’, natural light is often enough to be able to view the inside. Although not always a problem, it can be tricky to install electrical wiring (e.g. for heating equipment) and glass tanks are prone to cracking when not handled with care. Ventilation in glass tanks can also be tricky.

Reptile cabinets with glass sliding doors in the front are both attractive looking and easy to set up. Cabinets can be made or ordered in various or custom sizes. Having a strong roof, cabinets can be stacked or items can be placed on the top. Some sort of artificial lighting will often be required to be able to view the inside properly, but the wooden roof and sides make it easy to install lighting, electrical wires and ventilation openings. Non-treated, dry wood can be prone to soaking moisture and unsealed edges and corners are prone to collect insects and dirt.

Example of a reptile cabinet made from epoxy coated plywood.

Leopard gecko breeders often make use of large plastic storage containers. These containers are cheap, readily available and are easy to clean. They can be stacked easily, thus saving space, but their use is limited when it comes to being viewed from the outside. Ventilation holes can be drilled in the lid or sides of the enclosure.

Using stacked plastic containers in a breeding facility. Image with permission from CrestedGecko.com.

Vivarium and terrarium enclosures are made by companies such as Exo Terra, ZooMed Laboratories, REPTOZOO and many others. Products include “Pal pens “and “Desert dens”. When looking at these types of enclosures, the floor space and height are probably the most important aspects to look at.

REPTI ZOO 10 Gallon Reptile Tank (20 x 12 x 10 ” / 50 x 30 x 25 cm). Available from Amazon.com

A note on ventilation

Something that is often neglected when setting up a Leopard gecko terrarium is the ventilation. What makes things more difficult is that enclosures need to be made escape/predator proof by completely closing it off from the outside. Proper ventilation can be a challenge when containers are stacked or when glass tanks are used.

Being the process of exchanging air between the outside and the inside of an enclosure, ventilation can be achieved by creating openings to allow airflow. Excess heat will also be able to escape through ventilation. More ventilation is often better.

Ventilation can be created in the form of openings on the top and/or the sides of a terrarium enclosure. Air will be able to move more freely in the case where multiple sides are ventilated. Popularly used ventilation methods include the use of screen lids in glass tanks, grills on the sides of cabinets and drilled holes in the lids and/or sides of plastic containers. A good commercial terrarium should have ventilation openings pre-installed.

Lighting

Being crepuscular and nocturnal, Leopard geckos spend their days hiding while resuming intermitted activity from dusk till dawn. In the case where natural light is not enough, a non-heat transmitting light source (e.g. energy saver light bulbs, LEDs or fluorescent tubes) that will not affect the environmental temperature can be used during the day.

Provided that enough vitamin D₃ is supplied, Leopard geckos do not need ultraviolet (UV) lighting of any sort⁽³⁰⁾. One study found that when UV lighting was supplied that Leopard geckos had increased shedding patterns and suffered from signs consistent with sunburn⁽³⁰⁾.

Normal, non-UV lighting can be installed on the inside of cabinets, the inside of aquarium lids or placed on top of a screen mesh lid in the form of an overhead lamp. Optionally, some keepers go as far as installing night lighting that would not affect the normal behavioural patterns of Leopard geckos.

Also see
Leopard gecko lighting and lighting accessories

The substrate

The substrate (or bedding) is what is placed on the floor of the enclosure. Although natural substrates tend to be more aesthetically pleasing, their use is often met with ingestion and subsequent impactions and obstructions. Good bedding substrates include newspaper, paper towels, white or brown butcher paper and carpet. Particulate substrates such as sand, fine gravel, wood chips, crushed walnut shells, eggshells, fine grade bark, perlite, corn cob and alfalfa pellets can be ingested and should rather be avoided. Large pieces of driftwood, bark or rocks can be used for hiding and decoration (see below).

Sand is a very popular substrate for Leopard geckos, but should be used with caution or not used at all. If an owner insists on using sand for its natural appeal, coarse grade sands, silica sand and calcium-enriched sands should be avoided. When sand is used as a substrate, stool and activity need to be monitored for signs of sand ingestion.

Accessories

Accessories (aka enclosure furniture) for Leopard geckos include hiding areas, a basking surface, food and water containers and enclosure decoration. Apart from aesthetics, desired properties of accessories include their weight, size and ability to clean. For this reason materials such as resin, plastic and concrete are often used to produce them. The most important accessories for Leopard geckos are a properly set up hide box as a humidifying shelter, additional hiding areas and a water container.

Sample of a Leopard gecko terrarium including a natural-looking water container, rocks, dry wood pieces and plastic plants.

Hiding areas (hides) will be used for sheltering and sleeping, especially during the day. In a Leopard gecko terrarium, natural-looking hide areas can be in the form of custom made decorations and/or commercial hide boxes and caves. In addition to one or more hides, Leopard geckos will also need a humidifying shelter which will aid in the process of skin shedding and in increasing the environmental humidity. Each hiding area should be large enough to simultaneously fit all the Leopard geckos comfortably.

Commercial hiding spot in the form of a decorative tree branch. Available from Amazon.com

Items such as rocks, pieces of bark, flagstone, etc. are popularly used to make custom, natural-looking hiding areas and basking spots. A good example includes stacking or placing rocks or flagstone to create caves and canopies and places to climb onto. Custom hide decorations can be made to be open on one side so that the inside of the hidden area is more visible for viewing. Plastic plants can also be added.

Natural-looking hide area made by stacking rocks close to the glass surface for easy viewing.

Although Leopard geckos are considered savannah/desert lizards, a container for water also needs to be supplied. These containers can range from small bowls used for dogs and cats to fancy, decorative commercial containers that mimic rocks or logs.

Even though custom decorations can look more natural and add a lot of entertainment for Leopard geckos, they must be used with caution. Loosely decorated items can fall over and/or allow for areas where a leg or tail can get stuck in. Natural items are also more difficult to clean/disinfect and can offer hiding areas for insects, bacteria and parasites. Silicone glue can be used to anchor pieces together⁽³¹⁾.

Unlike cabinets and plastic enclosures, tanks have floors that are made from glass – which can easily crack when heavy objects are placed or dropped onto it. The same goes for unstable furniture that can fall over. To make the floor a little less fragile, layers of newspaper can be used to separate the substrate layer. Deep layered substrates will act as some degree of shock absorber and can be used to hide cables in.

Heating

Leopard geckos are ectothermic (relying on external heat sources to keep their body temperature at a suitable level) and poikilothermic (having a variable body temperature). Heating can be supplied using under tank heating such as a commercially available electrical heat mats/pads/strips or electrical overhead heat lamps pointed to a basking area.

The Tikaton reptile heat mat has build-in temperature control functionality and is available in variable sizes. It is perfect to be used as under-tank heating for Leopard geckos. Available from Amazon.com

Electrical equipment should be situated in such a way to only emit about a third of the enclosure’s floor surface and should be secured. Direct contact with heating equipment should be prevented. Underfloor heating can be placed under the enclosure or below the substrate.

Terrarium placement

Terrarium enclosures are often heavy and fragile. The surface where it will be situated needs to be strong, secure and able to bear the weight of the terrarium. A well-lit area with a free electrical plug point will be perfect. The bottom of the terrarium can be protected by using styrofoam. The floor space of the terrarium should be smaller than the surface its rest upon.

Conclusion

Creating a natural-looking, desert/savanna-themed terrarium for Leopard geckos is fairly easy and is a great way to make viewing more pleasurable. It also enriches their environment and stimulates their natural behaviours. This article outlined considerations when it comes to creating a Leopard gecko terrarium that includes enclosure types, ventilation, lighting, substrate, enclosure furniture and heating.

The post Leopard Gecko Terrariums appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Introduction to Leopard gecko lighting

It has been said that there can be no day without night, and there can be no night without day.

Day and night cycles can be created using light. In addition to creating a sensible photoperiod, the correct Leopard gecko lighting can also be used to supply heat and areas to bask in and can improve the aesthetic appearance of terrariums during the day or at night.

In nature, Leopard geckos are mainly active during the hours of dusk, dawn and during evenings. In other words, during times where the light intensity is low and/or there is no light at all. Many Leopard geckos are kept without any form of lighting⁽⁵⁰⁾, but by supplying light, their environment and activities can be made more natural.

The topic of supplying ultraviolet lighting (UVB) is still controversial⁽⁵⁰⁾, but by looking at their natural behaviour, UVB lighting can be used with caution under certain circumstances.

Lighting for Leopard geckos comes in various shapes, types and sizes. The necessity of lighting and the type of lighting used will depend on the type of housing (enclosure) and where it is located. For pet Leopard geckos, lighting is most often supplied artificially using electric light sources. An electrical timer can be used to switch lighting equipment on or off at desired.

Lighting equipment and other Leopard gecko accessories and care items are available online (e.g. Amazon.com), from specialised pet shops and general hardware stores.

Amazon.com
BangGood Also see
Supplying heat to pet Leopard geckos

Natural Leopard gecko lighting and activity

Various literature sources exist where the time of day, i.e. natural light cycles, are reported to have an effect on the natural behaviour of Leopard geckos^(49)(64)(66).

Leopard geckos live in areas where it is considered to be bright and sunny during the day. Although this is true, these geckos are considered to be crepuscular^(50)(51)(59) to nocturnal^(49)(64)(69) in nature.

In Pakistan, Leopard geckos were observed to be mostly active during the hours of dusk and dawn⁽⁴⁹⁾ — just before sunrise and just after sunset — and during the evenings.  Sherman & Minton report them to be strictly nocturnal where Leopard geckos only start to become visible at sunset⁽⁶⁴⁾.

Leopard geckos prefer to spend their days sheltering and hiding under or between rocks or under plants⁽⁶⁰⁾. Although Leopard geckos have been observed basking during the day⁽³⁴⁾, it is more important that heat is supplied from below in order for basking to take place. Evening basking will take place on rocks that were heated during the day⁽³²⁾.

Day and night are not only about light and dark. In nature, there is also a seasonal pattern to how long these periods are — called the photoperiod. As longer nights in winter become shorter in summer, Leopard geckos are able to establish the four seasons of the year.

Also see
Natural distribution of Leopard geckos

Lighting for Leopard geckos can either be direct or indirect, or natural or artificial. The type of lighting used will dependant on the size and type of enclosure. Lighting can also be divided into daylight and night light.

Direct vs. indirect lighting

Direct lighting is when there is no obstruction between the light source and the inside of the enclosure. For Leopard geckos, it is best supplied using overhead artificial lighting in the form of incandescent, fluorescent or halogen lamps. Commercial reptile lighting products are preferred over non-commercial or non-specialised ones.

Overhead lighting can either be mounted onto the side of cabinet-like enclosures, into the lid of glass enclosures or placed on top of mesh lids. Ones that are mounted on the inside of enclosures should be mounted securely and placed high up to prevent direct contact with Leopard geckos. Direct lighting can also be placed on top of screen lids or mounted onto a lampstand.

On the other hand, indirect lighting is when there is a barrier, e.g. glass or transparent plastic, separating the light source and the inside of the enclosure, but still allow light to pass through.

A good example of indirect lighting for Leopard geckos would be the light emitted from a lit room. The light in the room can either be natural light shining in from a window or artificial light in the form of electrical light. As the room becomes dark, so does the enclosure.

Natural vs. artificial lighting

Wild Leopard geckos live in environments where they are exposed to sunlight — in other words, natural lighting. Sunlight produces the entire visible light spectrum (including the infrared to ultraviolet waves – see later).

Taking into consideration the risk for overheating and their crepuscular behaviour, direct, natural light (i.e. sunlight) is almost never a good choice when it comes to long a term lighting solution for pet Leopard geckos. Pet Leopard geckos have been reported to get sunburned when exposed to sunlight. Also, placing an enclosure in direct sunlight can lead to temperature spikes which can be life-threatening.

Lighting can also be produced artificially. Artificial light can be produced from sources such as fluorescent tubes, halogen lamps and incandescent bulbs using electricity. It is more practical and much safer than natural lighting and is probably the most common form of lighting for Leopard geckos.

These days, both ultraviolet and infrared waves can be produced artificially using specialised lighting.

Lighting vs. heating

In some cases, a light source can also be used as a heat source. Any light source emitting infrared (IR) waves will produce some degree of heat.

Most artificial light sources will raise the ambient temperature inside an enclosure — at least to some degree. The same goes for night lighting.

Incandescent light bulbs (those with a wire filament that is heated until it glows) are more efficient in producing heat. The higher the power output (in Watt) the more heat will be produced. An incandescent spotlight pointed at a heat-absorbing platform (e.g. a rock) is popularly used to create a basking area for Leopard geckos.

Day vs. night lighting for Leopard geckos

Lighting for Leopard geckos can also be in the form of night light. Special, commercial reptile night lights are available for Leopard geckos. Night lights are said not to interfere with their behaviour and/or affect the overall photoperiod. Night lights can either be used for their night light-emitting properties only, or to supply heat in the process.

While light during the day mimics a more natural environment, night lighting is purely for owners to be able to view the inside of a Leopard gecko’s enclosure. While daylight light rays are visible to people and Leopard geckos, night lights are only visible to people. In other words, while we as humans are able to see night light inside a Leopard gecko’s enclosure, a Leopard gecko will not.

Lighting and photoperiod

Day and night are not only about light and dark — there is also a seasonal photoperiod associated with these times.

The photoperiod is the amount of time per day (in hours and minutes) it is considered to be light (vs. dark). The natural photoperiod for Leopard geckos is more or less 11 hours in winter and 13 hours in summer. This is often better controlled by using an electrical timer switch.

Also see
The photoperiod for Leopard geckos

Ultraviolet (UV) lighting for Leopard geckos

Looking at the visible light spectrum, ultraviolet (UV) rays are those with the shortest wavelengths (280 – 400 nm). Infrared (IR) rays are on the opposite side of this spectrum and are mainly used for emitting heat. Both UV and IR, and all the wavelengths in between, are naturally produced by the sun, but can also be produced artificially using specialised lighting.

UV light can be divided into UVA (315 – 400 nm wavelengths) and UVB (280 – 315 nm wavelengths). UVB is known to play an important role in the production of vitamin D₃ in diurnal lizards (mostly active during the day). Vitamin D₃ is required for calcium absorption from the intestines and its metabolism.

The common argument about using UV lighting in Leopard geckos is that they are mostly active during, dusk, dawn and the evenings — do they need UV lighting?^(50)(51) Another argument is that Leopard geckos have been kept healthy and successfully for generations without UV lighting⁽⁵¹⁾.

For these reasons, many Leopard gecko keepers prefer not to use UV lighting at all. Others⁽⁵¹⁾ do recommend its use with caution and only under certain circumstances:

• UV lighting should only be used during the day
• UV lamps should be mounted around 30 cm / 12 ” away from the floor of the enclosure⁽⁵⁰⁾
• Low form tubes (in the T8 range) and/or low-intensity UV lights (5-5%) should be used⁽⁵⁰⁾
• Proper hiding areas (“deep dark hides”) isolating the Leopard gecko completely should be supplied⁽⁵⁰⁾

Also see
Leopard gecko hide areas and hide boxes

Thermometers and electrical timers can make lighting equipment easier to use.

Thermometers

Thermometers come in different shapes and sizes and are used to measure temperatures.

Before the installation of lighting equipment is finalised, daytime and nighttime temperatures should be measured in various areas of the enclosure. A thermometer can also be permanently installed on the inside of the enclosure to keep a constant watch on the temperatures. The probe of the thermometer should preferably be inserted into or under the substrate⁽³²⁾.

The REPTI ZOO Reptile Terrarium thermometer can read the temperatures in the recommended temperature range of Leopard geckos. Available from Amazon.com

Also see
Leopard gecko thermometers

Electrical timers

Electrical timers (or electrical timer switches) can also be used to switch lighting equipment on or off at the desired times.

Zoo Med Repticare Day Night Timer can turn daylights on in the morning and off at night and nightlights on at night and off in the morning. It is perfect for regulating the photoperiod of Leopard geckos. Available from Amazon.com

Also see
Using electrical timers with Leopard geckos

Conclusion

Lighting plays an important part in creating a more natural environment and natural behaviour in Leopard geckos. Various types of lighting exist for Leopard geckos and lighting can also be used as heating.

UV lighting can be used with Leopard geckos, but only under certain circumstances and with caution.

Lighting accessories such as electrical timers and thermometers can make the use of lighting easier.

The post Supplying light to Leopard geckos appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Leopard geckos need very little lighting to do well as pets. Unlike diurnal (day living) reptiles, they do not need any additional ultraviolet lighting.

When the enclosure is used for displaying purposes or there is not enough natural light, additional Leopard gecko lighting equipment must be installed. This can be in the form of simple Leopard gecko fluorescent lighting available in tubes or bulbs. These lighting units do not emit a lot of heat and are cheap, long-lasting and economical to run.

Most electrical lighting equipment can be connected to an automated timer to keep the day and night times constant and more natural.

Light fittings

Leopard gecko lighting is going to need some sort of light fittings. Fluorescent lighting can be in the form of screw-in or bayonet type fluorescent bulbs or fluorescent tubes. Fluorescent fittings must be mounted securely on the roof or as close as possible to the top of the enclosure. There must be no possible contact between a Leopard gecko and the lighting tubes or fittings and the cabling must always be on the outside. Make sure to get the appropriate fitting and match the fluorescent tube wattage with the fluorescent tube fitting to prevent incompatibilities.

Leopard gecko lighting accessories. A very basic fluorescent tube fitting, electric timer to switch the Leopard gecko lights on & off, Bayonet-type light fluorescent bulb and light fluorescent tube.

The post Leopard Gecko lighting & lighting accessories appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Programmable electrical timers (or simply electrical timers) can be used to switch lighting on and off at desired times. When used with a roster, it allows better control and a more natural recreation of day-night cycles – improving the overall experience of pet Leopard geckos.

An electrical timer is a device that can switch electrical equipment on or off at desired times. In other words, it acts as a timed switch. They are plugged in between a power socket and the electrical device that needs to be controlled. The timer mechanism can either be manual or digital. Electrical timers are popularly used to control the lighting and heating equipment of Leopard geckos. They can be used to switch items on in the morning and off again at night. By using electrical timers, the photoperiod and heat supply can be controlled better without the need of being present all the time.

Electrical timers and other Leopard gecko accessories and care items are available online (e.g. Amazon.com), from specialised pet shops and general hardware stores.

Electrical timers

An electrical timer is a device that is used as a timer switch for electrical equipment. Common electrical equipment used for Leopard geckos includes heat pads/mats/strips and heat lamps, and lighting lamps. Electrical items are typically plugged into the power socket of the timer and the timer itself is plugged into a power socket on the wall.

The Zoo Med Repticare Day Night Timer is perfect to control the photoperiod of Leopard geckos. Available from Amazon.com

When choosing an electrical timer, the voltage rating (V) that should be selected will be determined by the standard voltage output of the country you live in (e.g. 220V or 110V). The default power plug should be suitable for your country too.

Other than the power sockets, important properties of electrical timers include the timer mechanism, an on/off LED indicator and a manual switch. Timer mechanisms can either be manual or digital.

Manual timer mechanisms are cheaper than digital ones (see below) but are less time-sensitive. They will either have a 12 or 24-hour clock wheel divided into 15-minute time intervals. Each time interval can be set to on or off by using its representing pull/push switch. As the day progress, the clock will rotate to keep time. During the 15 minute time intervals where the representing switch has been set to be on, the LED indicator will be lit, indicating that the connected electrical device is switched on. The manual timer switch can be used to override the timer interval switches.

Examples of commercial electric timers. Note the manual timer mechanism with individual time interval switches and the LED indicator. Different countries each have their own power cockets.

Electrical timers with digital timer mechanisms are a bit more tricky to set but, if done correctly, can be used to set daily, weekly, and sometimes even monthly and yearly routines. Instead of having a round clock mechanism, the on/off periods are set using a digital screen. To set times correctly, the user manual should rather be consulted.

Controlling the photoperiod

Electrical timers are perfect for controlling the photoperiod of Leopard geckos. The photoperiod is the amount of time per day that visible light needs to be supplied on in order to simulate a more natural environment. In the case where artificial lighting is used, it should either be switched on for about 12 hours per day, or about 13 hours per day during the summer and 11 hours per day during winter. During the evenings, all visible light can either be completely dimmed or infrared (IR) lighting can be used. IR lighting is believed not to interfere with the natural light cycle of reptiles⁽⁵²⁾. Both the lighting and heating can follow the same time patterns, but each should be connected to its own electrical timer.

Also see
Leopard gecko photoperiod

The REPTI ZOO Duel Digital Thermostat Timer Controller has a timer input, plus duel settings for daytime and nighttime temperatures. Available from Amazon.com

Conclusion

By using electrical timers, electrical lighting and heating sources can be controlled more accurately without the need to be present all the times. They can be set to switch light sources on in the mornings and off at night.

The post Leopard Gecko Using electrical timers appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Being nocturnal creatures (mostly active at night), Leopard geckos will not only need a place to hide when they are shy, but also a place to sleep during the day. In nature, Leopard geckos will hide away in tunnels and holes under the sand. Although the desert they live in is quite warm on the surface, it is cool and moist underneath. This is the type of hiding that needs to be created for pet Leopard geckos.

Hiding spots can be supplied in various forms. Special hide boxes (see later) will also aid in healthy shedding, help increase the humidity and serve as a place for females to safely deposit eggs.

Example of a simple Leopard gecko hide box. Available from Amazon.com

Various commercial Leopard gecko hiding products and caves are available from Amazon.com, pet shops, reptile retailers and other online shops.

What is a Leopard gecko hide box?

In its simplest form, a hide box for Leopard geckos is a box, or smaller container, with an opening large enough to allow access to the inside. One or more hide boxes can be permanently placed on the inside of Leopard gecko enclosures too, as the name implies, supply areas to hide in.

Examples of simple, home-made hiding areas for Leopard geckos. The hiding spot on the top is a simple plastic container with a large opening. The hide box on the bottom is a container with a large opening in the lid and is filled with a moist substrate. Image Korean Gardener (CC BY YouTube)

Different types of hiding for Leopard geckos

Hiding areas for Leopard geckos can be supplied in various forms. A simple hiding area can be in the form of an upside-down plastic container with an opening. Other items, such as decorative rocks, wood, cardboard and plastic materials can also be stacked and decorated to create tunnels and cave-like structures.

Simple commercial hiding cave for Leopard geckos. Available from Amazon.com Hiding spot in the form of a decorative stomp. Available from Amazon.com

More advanced hide areas floored with a moist substrate are also required. These are usually waterproof containers or boxes filled with a moist layer of vermiculite or peat or sphagnum moss mixtures. In addition to hiding, these types of hiding areas also supply a place for females to deposit their eggs (see breeding boxes below) and will aid in skin shedding. Also see suitable substrates for Leopard geckos, Leopard gecko breeding and skin shedding problems for more information.

What makes a good Leopard gecko hide box?

Things to consider when choosing hiding areas for Leopard geckos are its size, the size of the main enclosure, ability to clean, aesthetics and its purpose. The hiding area should be large enough to simultaneously fit all the Leopard geckos comfortably. The opening should also be large enough, but not too large, to allow easy access.

Although Leopard geckos are not known to soil the areas they sleep in, the hiding areas should still be washed and disinfected from time to time (at least once a month). Old and mouldy hide box substrates should also be replaced regularly. If disposable hiding areas are not used, it is advised to invest in materials (e.g. plastics) that can be easily washed and sundried.

Breeding boxes for Leopard geckos

Breeding boxes for Leopard geckos are ‘specialised’, or more advanced hide boxes with the purpose of supplying a place for females to lay their eggs in. Without exception, the setup of breeding boxes is similar to more advanced hide boxes discussed earlier. Also see Leopard gecko breeding more information.

Where to place Leopard gecko hide areas

Very often one or two hide areas are enough for most Leopard geckos. More hiding areas can be placed in various locations in larger enclosures. When heating equipment is used, hiding areas should preferably be placed in the cooler and in the warmer areas of the main enclosure.

The post Leopard gecko hide areas and hide boxes appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

The photoperiod is the time a Leopard gecko is exposed to light (vs. darkness) – over a period of 24 hours. When placed in an artificial environment, the photoperiod needs to be considered as it has an effect on a Leopard gecko’s activity and reproduction.

The photoperiod is the period of time each day during which an organism receives illumination. In other words, it is the day length. In nature, the photoperiod is mainly determined by the sun. For Leopard geckos, the photoperiod affects the day-night-rhythm which has an effect on their activity and is (over time) used to determine the four seasons of the year.

Leopard geckos are crepuscular and nocturnal animals, meaning they are mainly active from dusk until dawn. During the day, Leopard geckos will hide away and sleep most of the time. When comparing the amount of time Leopard geckos actually spend in lit areas with, for example, diurnal animals, it is often concluded that the photoperiod plays an insignificant role.

Even though this might not be what is seen in pet Leopard geckos, scientists have determined that the amount of melatonin (see later) varies when there is a variation in their photoperiod – which suggest that photoperiod might have an effect on their reproduction. Literature also states that irregular photoperiods and excessive periods of darkness are stressors of Leopard geckos⁽²⁹⁾.

Natural photoperiod for Leopard geckos

When looking at the day-night rhythms in South Asia there is a relatively small difference between seasonal photoperiods. Starting to increase after winder, daylengths are at their longest in June (about 12 hours and 50 minutes). The shortest days are in December and January (11 hours and 30 minutes). This gives about 11 hours and 10 minutes of nighttime during summer and 12 hours thirty during the winter months. During autumn and spring the daylight length will gradually change towards or away from about 13 hours per day. Also see natural distribution and habitat of Leopard geckos for more information.

The pineal gland of Leopard geckos

Most vertebrates, including Leopard geckos, have what is called a pineal gland (also referred to as a ‘third eye‘ or ‘pineal eye‘). It is a small pea-shaped gland situated in the brain which is sensitive to environmental light (i.e. the photoperiod). The pineal gland of Leopard geckos should not be confused with the Jacobson’s organ (which is an organ used to ‘smell’). Although some of the pineal gland’s functions are still unknown, it is known that it secretes melatonin (a hormone) when lizards are exposed to light (e.g. daylight). Being dependant on the seasonal changes (in other words the photoperiod), the pineal gland of most lizards are well developed.

Longer days (13 hours per day) will lead to more melatonin secretion and vice versa. In other words, when the concentration of melatonin is relatively low (i.e. when the day-length is relatively short when compared with the night-length – about 11 hours per day) a Leopard geckos’s brain can determine that it is winter. Leopard geckos can also determine whether it is spring or autumn through regular changes of melatonin. When there is a sudden change in the concentration from low to high (i.e. during spring) these hormones, among other things, stimulate breeding behaviour.

Controlling the photoperiod for pet Leopard geckos

Even though there is a seasonal variation in the photoperiod in nature, the well-being and breeding patterns of pet Leopard geckos do not seem to change significantly. Most Leopard gecko keepers prefer to use natural room lighting or 12 hours of light where artificial light needs to be provided. Artificial light can either be supplied by using a light bright enough to lid the room or as a low wattage (40 Watt) light or a reptile night light shining onto or into the container. Whatever lighting is used, it should not interfere with the temperature of the keeping container (also see supplying heat to pet Leopard geckos for more information.

To create a photoperiod that resembles the day-night cycles in South Asia, lighting equipment can be used. By changing the on-off light cycles in combination with a seasonal roster a more natural photoperiod can be created. This process can either be done manually or by using a programmable electric timer.

As mentioned previously, lighting should be on for about 13 hours per day during the three main months of summer. During the three winter months, the lights should be on for 11 hours and off for 13 hours. During the three months of spring, the light period should be gradually increased from 11 to 13 hours per day and from 13 to 11 hours per day during autumn.

References

• 30) Boyer, Thomas H.; Garner, Michael M.; Reavill, Drury R.; Steffes, Zachary J. Leopard Gecko Diseases and Care. Proceedings. Retrieved 22 July 2020

Leopard geckos 101 is a free, informative website helping to improve the quality of pet Leopard geckos. If you found value in any of its content, please consider making a donation. Also see the other ways to support Leopard geckos 101.

The post Leopard gecko photoperiod appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Leopard gecko thermometers

Thermometers are used to read temperatures. They are valuable and necessary for Leopard gecko owners and are used to make sure it’s not too hot or too cold. Read article

Share

The post Leopard Gecko thermometers appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

The humidity is basically the amount of water, in the form of vapour, in the air. In more technical terms it can be expressed as the relative humidity which is the amount of vapour in the air as a percentage of the space of air that can hold vapour. Higher percentages mean higher humidity and vice versa.

A visual example of relative humidity (RH). The area above the water source represents the air in which water can evaporate and the particles represent the water particles. Image from blog.cashins.com

Just think of your Leopard gecko’s enclosure as a closed space of air, and the humidity as the amount of water in that space. Being enclosed, that area’s humidity will be different from the room the enclosure is situated at.

Factors affecting humidity

Apart from the size, or the area for water to evaporate in (which is usually relatively small in the case of Leopard gecko enclosures), factors such as the ventilation, temperature, substrate and the amount of water available also greatly affect the humidity.

Comparatively more ventilation, larges spaces, less water and lower temperatures lead to lower relative humidities. The opposite is true for less ventilation, smaller spaces, more water and higher temperatures.

In the case of pet Leopard geckos, we have the most control over the temperature (e.g. heat pads) and the amount of water (e.g. size of the water dish and hiding boxes).

What humidity are we talking about for keeping Leopard geckos?

Remember that Leopard geckos originate from the drier and desert areas of Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Iran. The outside humidity in these areas is on average about 40 – 50% – which is quite low compared to non-desert areas.

Saying this, Leopard geckos are also considered ground-dwelling, and during the day, hideaway in small areas where the humidity is a little higher.

In other words, pet Leopard geckos need relative low humidities with hiding areas of higher humidities.

Why humidity is important for keeping Leopard geckos

Generally, too high humidities will lead to an increase in diseases. In this case, diseases such as intestinal parasites, skin and mouth infections, and pneumonia are more common.

When the humidity is too low, the risk for dehydration, overheating and skin shedding problems increase.

How will I know what the humidity is like?

The humidity can be measured with a hygrometer. By looking around, small commercial hygrometers might be available from some pet shops and on the internet. Some Leopard gecko keepers are also handy enough to make their own hygrometer.

Exo-Terra produces a very popular, small and cost-effective reptile hygrometer. Available from Amazon.com

A terrarium hygrometer can be placed directly in the space where you want to measure the humidity. It is always a good idea to take multiple readings, for example during the day and during the evening.

Approaching humidity in Leopard geckos

First of all, it is important to note that the humidity will vary from setup to setup, i.e. no two Leopard gecko enclosures will have exactly the same humidity.

Before changing anything, or before finalising the setup, test the humidity first.

The general idea is to have an enclosure with fairly low humidity and hiding areas with higher humidities. My first guideline is to have a small water dish with a hide box filled with moist (not wet), clean peat/sphagnum moss or vermiculite. This will work for the majority of setups. Both the hide box and the water dish should be placed in the cooler side of the enclosure.

When, after testing, the enclosure humidity is still grossly incorrect, a smaller water dish, lower temperature and more ventilation will decrease the humidity. When it is really on the low side (e.g. < 40%), it can be increased by doing the opposite.

How will I know the humidity is incorrect?

The problem is that you might not know until it is too late. It must also be noted that even incorrect humidities might not necessarily lead to problems, ever, but for those that might show problems, the problems can be severe and even lead to death.

Apart from unrecommended humidity measurements, keepers might also pick up something is wrong when a Leopard gecko spends too much time in the water dish or in hiding. Other geckos might try to escape by climbing the wall of the container while others might show open-mouth breathing or poor appetites.

The post Ensuring the correct humidity for pet Leopard geckos appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Save for later…

One of the more important parts of keeping Leopard geckos as pets is setting up an artificial environment where they can thrive. Although not as challenging as with many other pet lizard species, temperature (in the form of heat) plays a vital part in their health and well-being.

Leopard geckos are considered poikilothermic (having a variable body temperature) and ectothermic (dependent on heat from sources other than their own). With pet Leopard geckos, some sort of external heat source might be required.

Although Leopard geckos are exposed to huge day/night and seasonal temperature differences in nature, they show huge adaptability in most artificial environments. As pets, Leopard geckos will thrive in temperatures of 25 – 32 ºC / 77 – 90 ºF with a drop to room temperature during the evenings. In many parts of the world, including South Africa, no heating equipment will be required, but with average room temperatures of below 23 ºC / 73 ºF additional heating should be installed.

Leopard gecko heating equipment

External heating for Leopard geckos can be in the form of electrical heat pads or strips or overhead lighting. Electrical heat rocks are also frequently used. The type of heating required or used will depend on the size and type of the enclosure.

Heating should be supplied on one side of the enclosure to allow for a natural temperature gradient towards the other side.

Because Leopard geckos are night dwelling animals, overhead heating (simulating the sun) is not as important as with diurnal reptiles. It is more important than heat is supplied from beneath in order for ‘basking’ to take place.

Heat lamps emit heat from the top. By simply shining it onto an object that absorbs heat (e.g. a piece of rock), the surface can be used as a basking spot. The amount of heat can be controlled by moving the heat lamp further or closer or by changing the Wattage of the light bulb.

Heat rocks, heat pads and heat strips make good choices as it looks more natural or can be hidden under the substrate. When heat pads/strips are used, it should only cover about a quarter (25%) of the floor space to allow for a temperature gradient. The electrical wiring should be hidden and/or isolated properly to prevent contact with moisture and the Leopard gecko itself. Various type and sized heat pads, heat rocks and heat strips are available for under-tank heating. They can also vary in strengths (and price!).

T-Rex Cobra Heat Pads comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. It is ideal for under-tank heating in Leopard geckos. The heated area should be covering about a quarter of the total surface of the enclosure.

Whatever heating equipment is used (or not), the temperatures on both sides of the enclosure should be tested thoroughly with a thermometer a few consecutive days before the introduction of a Leopard gecko.

Simple digital thermometer with a probe to measure temperatures in a Leopard geckos enclosure.

Nighttime temperatures are most often achieved by simply disconnecting the heat source. Electrical timers are often used to achieve natural day/night effect.

The post Supplying heat to pet Leopard geckos appeared first on Leopard Gecko.

Introduction Leopard gecko photoperiod

The photoperiod is the period of time (in hours and minutes) per day during which we are exposed to light. In other words, daytime (vs. night time). On earth, natural light mainly comes from the sun. The number of daylight hours varies from place to place. It is mainly dependant on the location on earth and typically ranges between 10 and 14 hours per day.

For reptiles, the photoperiod establishes a day-night rhythm which does not only affect their day to day activity and behaviour but also their ability to determine the season of the year. It is known that Leopard geckos are crepuscular^(50)(51)(59) to nocturnal^(49)(69) by nature, meaning they are intermittently active during the periods of dusk, dawn and the evenings.

Outside these periods (i.e. during the day and during the night), Leopard geckos will spend most of their time hiding and sleeping. Because of this, it is commonly concluded that they do not need exposure to light at all, but various literature suggests that it is not the case and that even pet Leopard geckos do benefit from having day and night patterns.

Scientists are also of the opinion that irregular photoperiods and excessive periods of darkness are actual stressors of Leopard geckos^(29)(30).

In most cases, using the natural day-night patterns of your location will be enough. For those not living in sunny areas and/or in the case where electrical light sources are used, the photoperiod for Leopard geckos can either be set to 12 hours per day or between 11 hours in winter and 13 hours in summer.

Leopard geckos are believed to show sensitivity to the photoperiod — called photoperiodisms. They are also sensitive to what time of day it is. In this photo, a juvenile Leopard gecko is hiding under shelter. This is typically done by Lepard geckos during the day and/or during the night.

The phenomenon of being sensitive to the photoperiod is called photoperiodism. Although the photoperiod is defined by the length of day or a light period, photoperiodism is the physiological reaction of organisms to the length of the night or a dark period.

Scientists believe that the amount of melatonin (see later) varies when there is a variation in the photoperiod — which suggest that photoperiod might have an effect on their biology, reproduction and other behaviours. When a Leopard gecko is placed in an artificial environment, the photoperiod needs to be considered as it will likely affect the behaviour and reproduction.

Natural photoperiod for Leopard geckos

As mentioned earlier, the number of daylight hours depends on where you are in the world. When looking at the day-night rhythms of South Asia (where Leopard geckos are naturally found) there is a relatively small difference between seasonal photoperiods. Starting to increase after winter, daylengths are at their longest in June (about 12 hours and 50 minutes).

The shortest days are in December and January (11 hours and 30 minutes). This gives about 11 hours and 10 minutes of nighttime during summer and 12 hours and 30 minutes during winter. During autumn and spring, the daylight length will gradually change towards or away from about 13 hours per day.

Also see
Natural distribution and habitat of Leopard geckos

The brain of many lizards has an area that is called the pineal complex. This area consists mainly of the pineal gland (also referred to as the pineal body or the pineal organ) and the pineal eye (also referred to as the parietal eye or a ‘third eye‘). Both the pineal gland and the parietal eye are photosensitive⁽⁵²⁾ (i.e. sensitive to light).

Note: Although the author of this article could not find any direct reference on whether (both) these areas are present in Leopard geckos, both are cited to be present in Squamata (which includes Leopard geckos) and the pineal eye is cited to be present in some Squamata⁽⁵²⁾.

The pineal gland should not be confused with the Jacobson’s organ (which is the part of the brain which is used to ‘smell’).

Although some of their functions are still unknown, the pineal gland, and, to a lesser degree, the parietal eye mainly secretes the hormone melatonin. Research showed that there seems to be an inverse relationship between cultured melatonin levels and environmental light⁽⁵²⁾.

In other words, more melatonin is secreted in the absence of light. Interestingly enough, its secretion was reduced in the presence of white light, but not in infrared light⁽⁵²⁾.

Reptiles are known to exhibit daily and yearly patterns in their behaviour. A rhythmic pattern that repeats every 24 hours is called a circadian rhythm. In reptiles, melatonin is believed to play a vital role in maintaining this circadian rhythm⁽⁵²⁾. Taking the seasonal differences of photoperiod into consideration, one can appreciate the fact that the average melatonin levels with differ between summer and winter months.

For this reason, and others, it is believed that melatonin plays a functional role in many aspects of reptilian biology⁽⁵²⁾. Melatonin has an influence on the behavioural and physiological mechanisms controlling thermoregulation^(52)(53). The pineal complex is suspected to also be involved in the reproduction cycles and behaviour of reptiles⁽⁵²⁾.

Also see
Breeding behaviour in Leopard geckos
Leopard gecko breeding

Photoperiod for pet Leopard geckos

Even though there is a seasonal variation of the photoperiod in nature, the well-being and breeding patterns of pet Leopard geckos do not seem to differ significantly in the absence of small daylight variations. This is probably due to the fact that temperature also plays a role. Most Leopard gecko keepers prefer to use natural room light or 12 hours⁽⁵⁰⁾ of artificial light.

Artificial light is usually supplied by using overhead lighting in the form of fluorescent tubes, energy saver light bulbs, LEDs or low power (

The post The photoperiod for Leopard geckos appeared first on Leopard Gecko.